Three Wineries You Need to Visit this Summer
At Kolby Winery; photo courtesy of Kolby Winery
During summer, there is a special kind of magic in the vineyards of South Moravia. As the vines begin their journey to harvest, growing shoots and tendrils that cling to their supportive trellises, the land transforms into varied shades of green, beckoning us city folk to stop, pause, and reflect. The vine’s journey does not stop until autumn, and ultimately, it is up to the producers and winery employees who work tirelessly to ensure a healthy crop, carefully tending to each vine with the utmost attention. It is a crucial time of year, one that can determine the yield for the upcoming fall harvest, and each manipulation and intervention of the vine is incredibly important. Living in wine country, it is the summer season that I cherish, witnessing the first signs of green grape clusters on the vine. And fortunately, there is no better place than South Moravia, with its sprawling 18,000 hectares under vine, to fall in love with the vineyards.
This past week, I visited three wineries in South Moravia : Kolby Winery, Reisten Winery, and Syfany Winery. And although their winemaking approaches vary, they all share the same inherent passion and dedication to terroir and varietal expression of their grapes. What I find most encouraging about South Moravia’s wine producing villages is the spirit of community, cooperation, innovation, and gratitude towards nature, one that for me, reflects the overall culture and appreciation of the history of the region. If nothing else, this COVID-19 pandemic has revealed that despite its rampant, unrelenting spread around the globe, nothing can stop the vineyard and winemaking process.
It is hard not to be inspired by these wineries who are driving the industry forward. Motivated by the global trends sweeping the wine world, the winery directors, producers, cellar hands, sommeliers, and employees remain grounded and humble, adapting to consumer demand while maintaining their own personal vision. And I for one am motivated by their mission- to craft wines that represent all aspects of South Moravia : The region, the history, the culture, and the terroir.
If you are reading this, and happen to live in the Czech Republic, these wineries are all easily accessible by train or bus, offering a fabulous escape from the monotony of city life. These winemakers and wine professionals share the same curiosity and passion for wine as I do, and I am thrilled to share their story. Never before have I been so warmly welcomed, and treated just like a fellow member of the Moravian wine community.
Photo courtesy of Kolby Winery
Founded in 1997 by Oldřich Drapal Sr., Kolby winery is a mid-size winery located in the sub-region of Mikulov, in the tiny village of Pouzdřany. This historic village dates back to the 13th century, and was predominantly known for both agriculture and viticulture. Today, the village is best known for the National Natural Monument, Pouzdřanská step, a protected area encompassing over 150 acres of botanical landscape, where rare plants, grasslands, insects, and birds dominate the vista. Bike trails abound, and adventure-seeking tourists can easily cycle through from town to town, navigating their way through the Moravian Wine Trails.
I was first introduced to the Sales Director at Kolby Winery, Josef Leisser, last fall, at a wine tasting in Brno hosted by the Aliance V8 Mikulov. This organization is a cooperation amongst eight prominent wineries in the region, whose collaborative goal is to promote premium wineries in Mikulov. Pleasantly surprised by the high quality of Kolby’s wines, I exchanged contact information with Josef, promising him a visit down to the vineyards.
Photo Courtesy of Josef Leisser
Yet as the fall season rolled into winter, and the COVID-19 restrictions quickly terminated any chance of travel, my trip to South Moravia was inevitably delayed. Thankfully, within the past few weeks, restrictions have lifted on train and bus travel, and I was finally able to pay Kolby winery a visit.
Terraced vineyards at Kolby Winery; photo courtesy of Kolby Winery
Kolby winery takes its name from the highest peak, Kolby, which sits at close to 300 m above sea level. Since 1946, the Pouzdřankská step that surrounds the vineyards, is one of the oldest protected landscapes in the country, offering biodiversity and a unique macroclimate, particularly suitable for viticulture. Today, Kolby’s vineyards encompass over forty hectares, and the winery produces approximately 100,000 bottles a year. Accessible by the local train, the winery is just steps from the station, offering a peaceful, serene day trip for anyone looking to taste high quality, Moravian wine in a picturesque setting.
Terraced patio; photo courtesy of Kolby Winery
The winery is currently owned by J&T Bank Holdings, whose wine division has invested significantly towards the expansion of Kolby’s premium wine production. These crucial investments have contributed to recent additions of state of the art equipment, including French oak barrels, stainless steel tanks, and high capacity storage facilities. In collaboration with Kolby’s Director, Ondřej Stejskal, the winery will soon be undertaking a massive renovation of a former chateau, situated across from the winery, welcoming wine-loving tourists with four star accommodations and fine dining restaurant facilities.
Since 2018, the winery operations have been led by an ambitious young winemaker, Michal Kacetl, an individual brimming with youthful energy, innovation, and ambition. Michal has recently finished his viticultural studies at Mendel University’s School of Viticulture, and is keen to invest his energy and knowledge, year after year, to enhance the quality of Kolby’s wines. This collaborative drive towards premium winemaking is augmented by Michal’s demand for minimal intervention techniques and extended maturations, magnifying a unique expression of the terroir found in Kolby’s wines.
Michal Kacetl pulling barrel samples at Kolby Winery
Vineyard Mapping at Kolby by grape variety; photo courtesy of Kolby Winery
What I admire most about Kolby Winery is their united, dedicated focus to produce premium wines at all price levels. With an aim to preserve historic traditions of the region, Kolby is determined to enhance their current vineyard sites to reach their optimal potential. Major projects in site selection for new vines, vineyard classifications, and soil sampling, are aimed at increasing vine health, without the use of harmful systemic fungicides or pesticides.
Additionally, specific vinification practices, such as extended skin maceration, French barrel maturation, expert blending, and maturation on fine lees, have amplified the varietal character in each wine, while adding to the overall complexity. Kolby winery impressed me with their in depth understanding of the intricacies of every step of the process, defining a clear mission forward to improve consistency, quality, and value.
Kolby winery specializes in predominantly international grape varieties, highlighting the mineral driven character in each bottle. The vineyards boast 9 white grape varieties: Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Hibernal, Welschriesling, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Tramín, and Grüner Veltliner, and 3 red grape varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Modrý Portugal.
Kolby winery has two tiers of wines in their portfolio : Their Classic Line, which indicates a maturation in stainless steel, and their Premium Line, which showcases their expert blending, incorporating a mix of stainless steel, small French oak barriques and larger, 600 L Slavonian oak barrels.
Kolby’s Premium Reds undergo both stainless steel and oak maturation, while the Premium Whites are all matured in oak barrel. All of the wines from Kolby, both Classic and Premium Lines, are held back in the winery at least 12 months after harvest, allowing for a controlled, steady maturation process, and subsequent integration of each wine’s flavors and textures in the bottle.
Although the moderate, continental climate in South Moravia can be variable, with unpredictable rain, heat waves, and frosts, Kolby winery aims at minimizing climatic risks, while maximizing each vine to its fullest potential. It is this attention to detail that sets Kolby apart, proving that terroir expression in wine starts in the vineyards.
Barrel Samples
During my visit to Kolby, Michal and Josef guided me through a tasting of their barrel samples of the 2019 vintage. I was extremely impressed by the depth of flavors and structure in the wines, particularly in the concentrated, fragrant aromatics that set each wine apart. By incorporating gentle vinification techniques and maturation on fine lees both in barrel and stainless steel tank, the wines mature gracefully, and are noted for delicate fruit and mineral driven flavors. The wines see minimal sulfur additions, if any at all, allowing for a broad, natural expression of each varietal character. During the course of the barrel samples, I did have a few standouts, which are certainly worth mentioning here.
Riesling Premium Line 2019 : For me, this was the top wine of the visit. This Riesling has been maturing in oak barrel since harvest, and expresses a broad, rounded texture, with distinct aromas of white flowers, green apple, and honey. By choosing to mature their Riesling in oak barrel, as opposed to stainless steel, the wine develops a fruity structure and textural complexity. To my surprise, there was no heavy oak influence on the nose, just slightly enhanced phenolics on the palate, accented with hints of spice, balanced by refreshing acidity and a long finish. This is one to keep an eye on next season after bottling, and I can not wait to try it again.
Welschriesling Premium Line 2019 : Perhaps one of the finest grapes in cultivation at Kolby is their Welschriesling, as for me, it truly represents the greatness of South Moravia’s wine region. Kolby’s Premium Welschriesling also sees maturation in oak barrel, revealing a creamy, rounded nose of almonds, yellow apple, and quince fruit, balanced by hints of vanilla on the palate. This is an absolute treat for any Welschriesling lover, and one that can’t be missed when it is released next fall.
Pinot Blanc 2019 : Classic & Premium - Although Pinot Blanc is not the most aromatic grape, I find it to be utterly delightful. Kolby produces a Pinot Blanc for both their Classic and Premium Lines, and it was certainly hard to choose a favorite. Their Classic Pinot Blanc 2019, which sees stainless steel maturation, offers unique, smoky, mineral driven notes, while the Premium Pinot Blanc is the barrel matured version, highlighting spicy and toasty notes from the oak, offset by a palate rich with ripe pear and freshly baked dough. Both highlight the terroir, while offering a fantastic wine for gastronomy pairings, like light pasta dishes or grilled fish.
Cabernet/Merlot Premium cuvée 2018 : For all of those wine lovers seeking a red wine from South Moravia, look no farther than Kolby’s Premium red cuvée, a delightful blend of 60%-70% Cabernet Sauvignon and roughly 30% Merlot. Pronounced aromas of espresso, chocolate, raspberry, and plum are enhanced by notes of tobacco and kirsch black cherry on the palate. The wine sees close to two years of maturation in a combination of large and small oak barrels, allowing for a steady integration of flavors, tannin, and structure. This wine is certainly a standout, particularly for red wines of the region.
Qvevri Tramín 2019 : Michal and Josef both referred to this wine as their ‘Kinder Surprise,’ a witty reference to the qvevri wine making process. Introduced by the Georgians thousands of years ago, qvevris are some of the first fermentation/maturation vessels known for vinification. A qvevri is an earthenware vessel, used for both fermentation and maturation. The vessel is buried deep underground to maintain a low pressure, and constant, cool temperature. Typically, aromatic white grapes with slightly pigmented skins are used for qvevri winemaking, resulting in wines that undergo extensive, long fermentations (sometimes up to 6 months), and offer wildly exotic aromas, stronger tannins, and concentrated phenolics.
Standing above Kolby’s Qvevri, buried underground.
Kolby’s Tramín was harvested, destemmed, and then underwent a one month fermentation in their qvevri clay vessel, buried in front of the winery. After fermentation was complete, the wine was racked off the gross lees into tank, where it underwent sedimentation, and was then placed back into the qvevri vessel, where it was allowed to further mature.
Kolby’s Tramín showcased exotic aromas of rose, jasmine, and chamomile, while the palate bursted with orange peel and spicy, peppery notes. For me, qvevri wines are perfect for a summer barbecue, as the charred notes from grilled meats and vegetables offer an ideal accompaniment to the tannic phenolics of the wine.
Reisten Winery; photo courtesy of Reisten Winery
Reisten Winery owns some of the most prestigious vineyard holdings in the Mikulov region of South Moravia, boasting over 30 hectares in sites such as Valtický, Pod Palavou, Slunný Vrch, and U Božích Muk. With a predominant focus towards white grape varieties, Reisten Winery has for years proved to be an icon in the region, with a consistent, reliable, quality driven production year after year.
Founded in 1999, Reisten Winery established their first cellars in Pavlov, where the limestone outcropping of the Carpathian Mountains proved to be an ideal spot for the cultivation of local white grapes, like Riesling, Pálava, and Sauvignon Blanc. Upon establishing their winery, the grapes for the wine had been sourced from local growers, yet there was always a determination to be entirely self-sufficient. In 2001, Reisten decided to forge their own path forward, planting their own vineyards on the top sites in Mikulov.
2005 marked Reisten’s first vintage using only their own fruit, and since then, the winery has been a guiding leader in the region. In fact, one of the original founders of Reisten Winery is Radomír Nepraš, current owner of Nepraš Family Winery. Mr. Nepraš dedicated himself to finding the most optimal sites for his vineyards, striving to increase efficiency and overall quality of Moravian wine.
Photo courtesy of Reisten Winery
Today, the winery is under the leadership of business and sales director, Václav Šmach, and winemaker, Zdeněk Musil. Along with the rest of their cellar and administrative teams, these passionate individuals work tirelessly to enhance the quality and consistency of Reisten’s wines.
Since 2019, Reisten Winery has been owned by J&T Bank Holdings Corporate Wine Sector, the same owners of Kolby Winery. Their valuable investments and vision towards premium wine production have led to major financial investments in introducing state of the art technology, increased storage capacities, and a new production facility that overlooks the Devčičky castle. The new facility, sitting at the foot of the Pálava hills, will soon offer private event rentals and outside tasting.
Reisten Winery is a member of the VOC Pálava, an association aimed at the classification and designation of vineyard sites, similar to the AOC’s of France. The VOC Palava’s aim is to unite premium wineries in the region by adhering to strict quality standards, yields, and permitted grape varieties. With support from the Wine Fund and the Wine of Czech Republic, Reisten, along with other prestigious wineries, such as Vinselekt Michlovský, Volařik, and Mikrosvín, are guided by an organized approach to both promoting their wines and maintaining the highest quality and reputation.
Reisten Winery offers two prominent brands of wines in their portfolio : Their Classic selection and their Premium ‘Maidenstein’ Selection. Each parcel is subjected to strict quality control by Zdeněk and his team, using only the highest quality fruit, processed by state of the art machinery. And although Reisten’s wines are known primarily for their slightly increased level of residual sugar, they retain a refreshing backbone of saline minerality and juicy acidity, which certainly enhances the overall quality of their wines.
Zdeněk Musil- Head Winemaker at Reisten Winery; photo courtesy of Reisten Winery
During my visit, I spoke at length with Zdeněk about his approach to winemaking, and was keen to learn that he had spent over five years in California’s Sonoma County, working five consistent crushes at La Crema Winery. This laborious, yet rewarding experience of working in a massive winemaking operation in the United States, led him to understand efficiency and quality standards, while creating his own benchmark for premium Moravian wine. It was this motivation that brought him back to South Moravia, where he could implement his international skills to advance the wines of his home country.
Zdeněk was kind enough to have me try a few barrel samples from the Slunný Vrch (Sunny Hill) vineyard plot, and although our time was limited, his energy and enthusiasm in the winery was palpable, and certainly was reflected in the excitement in his wines.
Barrel Samples
Photo courtesy of Reisten Winery
Pálava Slunný Vrch 2019 polosladké - I was extremely eager to taste the barrel sample of Reisten’s 2019 Pálava from the Slunný Vrch vineyard plot, as I had used previous vintages in some of my wine classes in Brno. This year’s vintage certainly did not disappoint, and the wine showcased honeyed aromas of lychee, rose, and ripe peaches. Although the wine does have a residual sugar of 22 g/L, it maintained vibrant acidity and a long finish, and would be the perfect pairing for a spicy, coconut based Thai dish. You can certainly pick up one of their previous vintages at Global Wines or through Reisten’s E-Shop.
Welschriesling - Slunný Vrch 2019 - Welschriesling is most at home in Mikulov, where it has adapted itself to the limestone bedrock of the Pálava hills. Reisten’s Welschriesling showed nervy, saline driven minerality on the palate, enhanced by notes of green pear and yellow apple. Fermented to dryness, this wine was absolutely delicious, and I am looking forward to enjoying it once it hits the market.
The Zborovský Family from Syfany Winery; photo courtesy of Syfany Winery
A few weeks ago, I was introduced to winemaker Jakub Zborovský and his wife Karla at a Natural Wine Pop Up held in Brno’s city center. I had heard about their winery before, and was eager to learn more about their winery operations. Jakub kindly reached out last week, and invited me down to Vrbice, for a day tour of the vineyards, cellar, and winery operations.
Boy, was I in for a treat.
Syfany Winery was founded by Jakub and his wife, Karla, with a vision to create natural, low intervention wines, that reflect the unique macroclimate of Vrbice, a small wine growing village in Velké Pavlovice. Vrbice has been known for centuries for agriculture and viticulture, and in fact, at one point in history, the villagers were outnumbered by cows in the region!
Vrbice, Czech Republic
Vrbice takes its name from the Vrba, or willow tree, one that dominates the landscape’s rolling hills. The village is easily accessible by bus or train, and offers any wine loving tourist the chance to stroll along the village's tiny family cellars, carved into the clay hillsides in the region.
During the years 1947-1989, while the country was under the Czech Communist Party rule, premium wine making in the country was put on hold, and inevitably, the push towards quantity superseded quality. Like countless other wine producers, Jakub’s parents surrendered their family’s vineyard ownership to the state, and focused instead on agriculture production of carrots, barley, wheat, and pumpkins, producing only small quantities of wine for personal consumption.
Jakub Zborovský- Winemaker at Syfany Winery; photo courtesy of Syfany Winery
Yet it is Jakub’s enthusiasm and vision that revived the vineyards, and his drive towards quality winemaking has catapulted the popularity of his wines around Europe.
His vineyards lie on southeast facing hillsides in Vrbice, offering a climate strikingly similar to that of Wagram, Austria. The free-draining soils range from compacted clay to loess, and the vineyards sit adjacent to a small forest which helps to protect against unpredictable storms.
His vineyards are in transition to biodynamic viticulture, as Jakub understands the importance of the connection between nature and man. He plants over a dozen grape varieties, ranging from Welschriesling, Tramín, Riesling, and Pálava, to Frankovka, Pinot Noir, Zweigeltrebe, and Cabernet Moravia.
As Syfany’s winery is located in the Modré Hory (The Blue Mountains), Syfany’s red wines, particularly the Frankovka, are a part of the VOC Modré Hory. Jakub allows only tiny sulfur additions and infrequent fining with bentonite, a natural clay, which aids with sedimentation and fining. Otherwise, he incorporates only natural manures and composts on the soil, and sprays with naturally derived biodynamic preparations, such as chamomile, horse tail, and nettles. In the cellar, Jakub prefers spontaneous, ambient yeast fermentation, and remarked that his father taught him that quality wine can consistently be made without packaged products.
I was particularly surprised by the barrel room at Syfany. As the majority of his wines see barrel maturation, Jakub wanted to incorporate Acacia oak from Moravia in his wines, to intensify the terroir character.
Jakub Zborovský; photo courtesy of Syfany Winery
Hand carved barrel at Syfany Winery
He works in cooperation with a local cooper, who artfully designs each barrel for a single grape variety, sourcing only local wood for his barrels. I found this to be a lovely touch to enhance this ‘Moravian’ character in each wine, instilling the sense of place in each sip.
The Zborovský family in the vineyards; photo courtesy of Syfany Winery
The name, Syfany, is derived from the combination of Jakub’s mother, Sylvia, and father, František, who was informally known as Fany. Jakub’s dedication to his parents, wife, and children is clearly evident in his demeanor, and he places an unrelenting importance towards maintaining this family dynamic. Hailing from a 500 year tradition of winemakers and farmers, his family still heads up other agricultural ventures, including carrot, sunflower, wheat, and barley production.
Barley fields at Syfany
In fact, Jakub sells his organic barley crops to local microbreweries in the Czech Republic, helping to support high quality, small batch beer production in the region.
The entire farming operation encompasses over 500 hectares of agriculture, an admirable venture, particularly when 50 of those hectares are dedicated to vineyards. Additionally, Syfany winery sells approximately two thirds of their grape production to local producers, reserving their top vineyard sites for their own production.
Syfany strives to produce dry wines that offer a gastronomic edge, and as a result, his wines are often seen on restaurant wine lists in Prague and Brno. Their wines are exported via small importers to Belgium, Rotterdam, Slovakia, Poland, and Berlin, allowing the rest of Europe a chance to try a taste of natural wine from South Moravia.
Syfany’s Barrel Room; photo courtesy of Syfany Winery
Barrel Samples
I was fortunate enough to taste through a number of barrel samples at Syfany, and was impressed by the overall complexity and terroir nuances in each wine. I share here some of my favorites, and I encourage you all to seek out these incredibly versatile wines. Check out their E-Shop for the full collection.
André Rosé - 2019 - André is a grape that was developed in South Moravia in 1961, and is a crossing of Blaufränkisch and Saint Laurent. Although Jakub does produce a red version of Andre, his rose was absolutely delightful, emitting a darker, salmon color, and aromas of strawberry, watermelon, and raspberry. Easily crushable, this wine showed balance and length, offering a bright, juicy finish.
Welschriesling 2019 - Syfany produces two versions of Welschriesling: one that is matured only in stainless steel, avoiding any oak influence, and a second that is matured in Acacia oak barrel. Both were absolutely delicious, yet remarkably different. For the Welschriesling that matured in stainless steel, it did undergo a malolactic conversion, thus exuding a creamy nose of lemon curd, marzipan, and nectarine, with hints of yellow apple and custard on the palate. The Welschriesling that matured in Acacia barrel was complex, with a saline driven backbone, and notes of lemon custard on a lengthy finish.
Frankovka 2018- Frankovka, or as it is known in Austria, Blaufränkisch, is one of the dominant grapes in the VOC Modre Hory. Syfany’s version is gorgeous, showing fragrant aromas of black olive, dark plum, dried herbs, and violets. The palate was supple and soft, with balanced acidity and flavors of ripe blackberry and black currant. An absolutely delightful wine that for me, was slightly reminiscent of the Freisa grape from the Piemonte.
Pálava 2019 - A dry Pálava is a rarity here in South Moravia, as most producers opt for the semi-dry or semi-sweet options. Syfany’s Pálava was bone dry, with aromas of lychee, rose, and guava, with a slightly creamy mid palate. The wine showed moderate acidity and slightly enhanced phenolics. A deliciously fragrant wine that will only gain in complexity as it continues its maturation in oak barrel.
Although our international travel restrictions may be limited this summer, I highly encourage you to plan a trip to South Moravia. Winemakers here are eager to share their stories and their wines, and are thrilled to have visitors.
Just be sure to call or email ahead of time, and enjoy a taste of wine country, right here in the Czech Republic.