What I Really Think About Czech Wine...Two Years Later
Photo by Karen Tharrington
This month marks the two year anniversary of our arrival in Brno. Despite having absolutely no intention of becoming a quasi Czech wine expert- well, here I am. And I want to share my opinions about Czech wine and its wine community, both as a sommelier and a foreigner.
I am grateful to have had the opportunity to build relationships with sommeliers, with winemakers, and with consumers here in the region over the past two years, and I feel like finally, I have the expertise to give an honest, unbiased opinion about Czech wine.
Full disclosure- I am not employed by a Czech winery, nor do I have any personal stake in the matter. I started Civil Wines as a simple blog, and everything just kind of snowballed from there. I am currently employed as a part time consultant for a Canadian based Czech wine import company. Like me, they are eager to share the wealth of Czech wine with their communities back home, and I am thankful to have the opportunity to establish and guide those working relationships.
To be straight with you, I am simply an expat and a wine professional, who feels like they have uncovered an extraordinary groundbreaking discovery, and I’m eager to let you all in on this hidden wine country.
Czech Wine Momentum
There is no doubt that the Czech Republic is quickly gaining momentum in the global wine scene. Restaurants in London, Hong Kong, Singapore, Oslo, Quebec, Berlin, and New York are clambering over how to get more Czech wine on their lists.
Importers are contacting me from all corners of the world, eager to latch on to the wave of Czech wine hitting international markets. Producers who once sold their entire allocation within the country are now expanding their global reach, reserving cases upon cases for thirsty foreign customers.
Photo by Karen Tharrington
Despite the incessant hardships caused by this ongoing global pandemic, I find solace in the regularity of opening a new bottle each day, learning about a nearby region, and exploring more of the terroir, the vinification methods, and the viticultural traditions in the country. This is the most exciting time to be a wine professional in the Czech Republic, and I’m here to tell you why.
Getting Started
I still remember my first Czech wine tasting. When politely asked my opinion, I froze. I was terrified to respond. After all, I had never tried a Czech wine before arriving in Brno, so how could I rightfully judge these wines sitting in front of me? At that time, I could name practically every village in the Loire Valley, but ask me about the geography of the Czech wine regions, and I would have stared blankly back at you. My initial opinion about the Czech wine industry was that I had no opinion.
I, like thousands of other wine professionals, never realized the Czechs made wine. And good wine, at that.
The vineyards in Pavlov - Photo by Karen Tharrington
A New Yorker in Brno
This country was all completely foreign to me - the language, the grapes, the terroir, the traditions. Like other expats in Brno, I had not grown up in a wine growing village with my grandparents, I had never worked in a vineyard, nor was I familiar with the vast range of local styles.
In a nutshell, I’m from Long Island, born to a liberal family who encouraged me to travel all my life. In the past twenty years, I’ve lived in France, Washington DC, New York City, and North Carolina. I’ve met people from all walks of life, gained incredible knowledge of various wine regions through my WSET Certifications, and I absolutely love what wine brings to my life.
Here’s a quick recap of what brought us here- I moved here to Brno in December 2018 with my husband, Jim. We moved here after he received an Expat assignment with his company. Initially, we were only supposed to stay two years, but we both fell in love with the country and have since extended our stay until September 2022. That’s right Brno, 2 more years of Civil Wines!
Since our arrival, I have sampled well over a thousand Czech wines and have personally hosted over twenty five wine tastings (both in person and virtually). Additionally, I have participated as a judge in five national wine competitions and have attended dozens of Czech wine tastings.
I’ve spent my days interviewing winemakers, oftentimes with an interpreter, while walking through the vineyards. I’ve taken countless bus and train rides to South Moravia, eager to learn more and expand my own wine knowledge. I’ve even spent time in the vineyards during harvest, both documenting it as a wine blogger, and participating as a volunteer.
Locals are very curious as to why I am so enthusiastic about Czech wine, and I am constantly asked, ‘Why are you so passionate about our country’s wine?’ The answer is simple- I am fascinated by this country’s wine industry. Overall, I find the wines exciting, the producers inspiring, and the region absolutely stunning. In just thirty years, the country has lifted itself out of the communist mentality of quantity over quality, and are now pushing the envelope in innovation, technique, and personal style. There are over 1800 wineries in this country, each with a personality and motivation all to their own.
Personally, I have tremendous respect for the producers here, knowing how hard they and their families work each year to produce the best wines they can. I get to see it first hand with every visit to their cellars. I am genuinely motivated by this country’s ingenuity, by their drive, and by their desire to be internationally recognized. I am also inspired by the winemaker’s stories, their tight-knit families, and the passion for their craft. Thirty years ago, these private wineries could not have existed. Yet today, they are thriving. And lucky me, I get to be the American in the middle of it all.
This experience as an expat has been eye opening, and much of the work and research that I have done has been motivated solely by my desire to seek answers. I don’t speak or read Czech, I don’t own a vineyard or wine bar, but I do understand now, more than ever, the importance of Czech wine to the country. After spending two years here, surrounded by Czech wine, I finally feel capable of voicing my own opinion about it all, unfiltered.
So here it is, my opinion about Czech wine. With love, from your enthusiastic, wine-obsessed American living as an expat in Brno.
The Wines of the Czech Republic
Sparkling Wine
Although a relatively minor player in the Czech Republic, traditional method sparkling wine is certainly on the rise. Thanks to producers like Kamil Prokeš, Martin Prokeš, Miroslav Volařík, Tanzberg Mikulov, Zamecké Vinařství Bzenec, and Jaromír Gala, sparkling wines made in the traditional, or champagne, method are increasing in both quality and quantity, while offering incredible value. These experts are also guiding other producers, mentoring them on their vinification and cellaring techniques, while ultimately guiding the overall quality of wine being produced.
Unlike those pricey sparklers from Champagne that use exclusively Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier, certain Czech producers are eager to highlight the dynamic range of varieties local to the region. Grapes like Riesling, Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc are crafted into premium bubbles, utilizing the ‘méthode champenoise’, or ‘méthode traditionelle,’ of secondary fermentation in the bottle. Although the range of sparkling wines are most closely associated with German and Austrian Sekt production, the sparkling wines from the Czech Republic are gaining traction both here and abroad, as consumers are eager to explore a wider range of available options.
Certainly, there are larger established houses like Bohemia Sekt, who have earned major success in foreign markets, with the Bohemia Sekt Prestige and Chateau Radyně flying off the shelves in Canada. In fact, the Bohemia Sekt sparkling wines consistently win top awards at the annual VINEX competitions. Hop on any Regiojet Business class seat, and you’ll be offered a mini Bohemia Sekt sparkling wine to get you through the journey. And although these wines are produced in mass, they offer the consumer a unique alternative to the bulk production sparkling wines from Italy and Spain.
I truly believe there is a niche for premium, Czech sparkling wine in foreign markets. With the introduction of apps like Vivino, customers are hungry for a change, and are eager to discover unknown grapes and unique wine regions. Having worked in wine retail in North America, consumers are constantly seeking alternatives to Prosecco and Cava, two sparkling wine categories that have oversaturated North American wine shops.
Wine buyers are constantly on the hunt for bubbles from unknown wine regions, and the Czech Republic proves that they are ready to deliver. And with the way 2020 has been so far, I think everyone is looking for an excuse to pop open a bottle of sparkling wine, to celebrate the everyday, tiny successes.
Pét-Nat
In my opinion, Pét-Nat is the style of wine which will open the doors to the Czech Republic’s wine industry. Although it is a less traditional style of wine, it is the avenue to export, offering a unique, fun, approachable flavor profile, and colorful, attractive bottlings.
As I mentioned earlier, consumers and wine buyers are thirsty for wines that are atypical from the norm. Despite other neighboring countries, like Austria, Slovenia, and Hungary, who have jumped on the export wagon already with their Pét-Nat production, make no mistake, the Czech Republic is next in line.
Pét-Nat, also known as Pétillant Naturel, are slightly sweet, juicy, high acid, fizzy wines, which have been wildly successful abroad, most notably for their uncomplicated style, refreshing simplicity, and colorful labels and marketing promotions. Just read wine writer Eric Asimov’s New York Times Article about Pét-Nat, and its future in the North American market. Considering that the Czech Republic is a cool climate wine growing region, aromatic grape varieties are widely planted, offering Pét-Nat producers an expansive palette to experiment and explore.
So what is the big deal with Pét-Nat? It’s easy, accessible, and wildly different. Pét-Nat is essentially a sparkling wine that is bottled in the midst of its primary fermentation, meaning that the wine is often bottled with a hint of residual sugar, a slight yeasty creaminess, and an unfussy, straight forward style. Producers like Kutna Hora, Petr Korab, Dobrá Vinice, Syfany, and Milan Nestarec are taking the international global wine scene by storm, crafting juicy, aromatic, visually stunning Pét-Nats that are playful, dynamic, and delicious.
There are no two Pét-Nats that are the same- and that is what makes it so special. They pair effortlessly with a range of foods, including slightly spicy curries, sushi, and charcuterie. Typically produced with lower alcohol levels hovering between 10%-12%, they can be consumed at any time of the day. (And ask any Czech, drinking wine at breakfast is totally acceptable.)
To be honest, I’ll always prefer a traditional method sparkling wine over a Pét-Nat, but I am excited to see producers crossing boundaries, propelling themselves into new territories, expanding their range, and crafting wines with limitless enthusiasm.
White Wine
White wine is where the Czech Republic shines. In my opinion, there is no other country that is able to produce such an enviable array of perfumed, aromatic white grape varieties like Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Pálava.
Despite many vintners' concerns that the multitude of grape varieties in the country is a disadvantage, I actually find the range to be an enormous advantage.
Czech wines have a kaleidoscope of flavors, leading to a largely successful leg up in foreign markets. For example, by positioning local white wines like Pálava or Tramín Červeny, with their distinctive fruit and floral aromas, against a backdrop of oaked Chardonnay and simplistic Pinot Grigio, the Czech wines will continue to gain international success.
Certainly, I understand the producers’ concerns. They would rather have one grape variety that represents the country, one grape that can be used as an identifying marker of the Czech Republic’s wine industry. For example, New Zealand has Sauvignon Blanc, and Austria has Grüner Veltliner. Due to the plethora of grape plantings (the Czechs have over 50 grape varieties registered in the National Grape Register), the Czechs can not rely on one grape to represent them as a country, as a whole.
But this is where my opinion differs from the producers. I find that the range of white grapes represents the evolution of the industry, the shift from communism to democracy, the growth over the past thirty years. The impressive range of white grapes exhibits the incredibly diverse terroir that reveals the dynamism of the country’s wine regions.
Speaking from an American perspective, consumers are constantly in search of something different: A wine that smells fragrant, but is also approachable and accessible. North American consumers are becoming bored by the status quo- Oaky wines with high alcohol, or spritzy wines with no real longevity. This is where I find that Czech wines can prove to be successful to an international audience. Czech white wines offer a range of flavors and aromas, reflective of the evolving landscape of the country, while simultaneously acting as an extension of the local customs and traditions that Czechs hold so dear.
Why are these grapes so aromatic and exciting? A cool, marginal climate, diverse soil types ranging from limestone to granite, and long autumn seasons allow for an expansive growth of perfumed white grape varieties.
In terms of historical importance, prior to 1989, the Czech Republic’s wine industry was barely able to keep up with the competition from neighboring countries. Technological and financial limitations proved to be detrimental to the overall growth of the industry. Yet today, the Czech wine industry is booming, and they are quickly mastering the production of premium, elegant white wines, that show refinement, vision, and harmony. Furthermore, investments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and premium oak barriques from French coopers like François Frères and Seguin Moreau are benefitting producers like never before.
In terms of flavor, the white wines of the region represent an intersection between old world and new world- Pronounced, fruity flavors typical of wines from the ‘new world’ are enhanced by salinity, minerality, and texture, typically found in wines from the ‘old world.’ This intersection creates an exciting new flavor spectrum, a bridge connecting two wildly different worlds.
Additionally, by incorporating modern techniques like pre-fermentation maceration, extended skin contact, lees stirring, and maturation in oak, wines here gain a character uniquely their own, allowing for minimal intervention winemaking practices to be achieved successfully. These techniques also offer the producers a way to limit the use of sulphur added to the wines, during pressing, élévage, and bottling, thus inviting consumers to enjoy wines that are an honest representation of the grapes and the terroir.
What grapes excite me? Riesling, Pálava, Welschriesling, Tramín Červeny, Pinot Blanc, Muškat Moravský, and Sauvignon Blanc, just to name a few. The quality of the wines each year is only increasing, driven mainly by financial investments, foreign interest, and a growing demand for premium wines. With every white wine I taste, I feel confident that there will continue to be a growing, international niche for these diverse, perfumed wines.
Orange Wine
So, the first time I tasted an orange wine back in the States, I hated it. I did not care for the tannin, the bitterness, nor did I particularly like drinking white wines with elevated alcohol content.
But then, I visited the cellars underneath the Tanzberg Hotel, and I tried the Orange Riesling 2017 from Tanzberg Mikulov. This wine sparked an orange wine nerve in my bloodstream, and had me wholly reconsider my previous judgements about this wildly foreign style of winemaking.
So what makes orange wine orange? Orange wine is essentially white wine that is fermented on the grape skins. By doing so, the wines gain a chewy texture, stronger aromatic profile, oftentimes garnering a darker, golden color. Thanks to the natural antioxidant properties found in grape skins, the producers do not need to use as much sulphur during élévage nor at bottling, ultimately establishing a more ‘natural’ approach to winemaking in general.
We consumers are savvy- we want less chemicals in our food, on our planet, and certainly in our wine. Thus by crafting wines that are inherently able to maintain stability by incorporating techniques like extended skin contact during fermentation, it helps to avoid bacterial spoilage both at bottling and during cellaring.
Thanks to the huge range of aromatic white grape varieties that I had mentioned earlier, the Czech orange wines are not only texturally and stylistically interesting, but offer a delightful aromatic foray into a brand new wine world. For me, the producers who experiment with Tramín Červeny, Riesling, and Pálava as orange wines tend to be the most successful, as the wines are a perfumed explosion of exotic fruits, flowers and spices, never before seen in the world of conventional wine.
Certainly, some producers nail it every time, while others are still forging their own path on their orange wine journey. Yet for those winemakers who understand and appreciate the nuances of premium, orange wine production, they are rewarded with massive international success and a substantial increase in consumer demand.
Rosé Wine
For the past twenty years, there has been a cultural shift happening in the world of rosé wine. Thanks to the explosion of Provençal rosé in the early 2000’s, consumers around the globe are finally greeting rosé with a smile, instead of with disdain and a toothache.
Gone are the days of Mateus and White Zinfandel, where sweet blush wine was all the rage. Sadly, over time, these examples convinced many consumers to think, “if it’s pink, it’s sweet.” Thankfully, those days are mostly behind us.
Although a large sector of the Czech wine industry continues to craft semi-sweet rosés (it is the tradition here, after all), a growing number of winemakers are choosing to produce age worthy, dry rosé wine, with texture, refinement, subtlety, and a distinct lack of residual sugar.
I have been surprised by the quality of rosé wine here in the country, as winemakers experiment with grapes like Frankovka, Merlot, Saint Laurent, Cabernet Moravia, Pinot Noir, and Zweigelt. The wines offer inviting aromas of red forest fruits, watermelon, white pepper, and wildflowers, while the palate shows luscious textures, fine tannins, and refreshing acidity.
And while the typical rosé should not be cellared beyond one year from bottling, some producers, like Jan Stávek, are refusing to follow the rules, and are instead fashioning rosés that exhibit cellaring potential. If you don’t believe me, check out Jan Stávek’s book about rosé wine, and learn what it takes to make an age worthy rosé.
Red Wine
Close to 18 months ago, I published a post on my blog entitled ‘No Country for Red Wine.’ Before moving to the Czech Republic, and even after moving here, I had been told, time and again, that the Czech Republic’s red wines were mediocre at best, and that if I had any sense, that I would not waste my money on purchasing a red wine.
At first, I fell into the trap, avoiding red wines from the region, as my unfounded bias against red wines was impenetrable. But one day, I cracked open a Saint Laurent from Vinařství Špalek, then a Pinot Noir from Vinařství Krásna Horá, and those preconceived notions about Czech red wine flew right out the window.
To be fair, Czech red wines have a lot of catching up to do. In comparison to neighboring countries like Austria and Germany, the commercial wine industry here is still staggeringly young, and for many years, were unable to benefit from foreign investments. Up until 1989, there was practically no financial incentive to produce quality red wine in the country, and vinification equipment and viticultural practices were decades behind. Instead, emphasis was placed on bulk red wine suitable for the masses.
Even today, Czech red wines simply cannot be compared to robust Spanish Rioja or Italian Chianti. The cool, marginal climate is certainly an important factor, as after all, we are located on the 49th parallel, considered the northernmost location suitable for wine production. The sun is simply not as strong as in other red wine regions, nor is the summer as hot, thus leading to wines with delicate tannins and a lighter overall structure. The use of oak barrel maturation can certainly facilitate a stronger tannin structure, yet its use must be carefully mitigated to avoid overabundant and unattractive oaky tones.
As compared to other red wines around the globe, Czech red wines are distinctive for their higher acidity, their lower alcohol levels, and their terroir character, reflective of the varying soil types and changing climates in the country. This is why I love them so much. To put it simply, Czech red wines are not trying to pretend to be something they are not. They are juicy, delicate, soft, and exhibit velvety, fine grained tannins. Grapes like Svatovavřinecké (Saint Laurent), Frankovka (Blaufränkisch), Pinot Noir, Cabernet Moravia, Zweigeltrebe, and even Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are gaining ground, with increased plantings throughout the various subregions.
But these factors of acidity and terroir identity are exactly what will drive the industry forward. Consumers, particularly those in North America, are somewhat exhausted by the high octane Zinfandels, Garnachas, and Shiraz that were oh-so popular back in the early 2000’s. And the Robert Parker-rating system, reputed for its affinity towards higher alcohol, voluptuous textures, and sweet tannins, would simply not be an adequate barometer to judge Czech red wines. Yet for those consumers who are seeking lighter red wine styles, with earthy aromas and sharper acidity, Czech red wines will surely deliver.
Dessert Wine
I’ve always been a sucker for fortified wine- whether it be port, sherry, or madeira. These wines excite me, as they offer complexity, richer textures, and certainly, a higher alcohol content helps to soothe those quarantine blues. Here in the Czech Republic, I was astounded to see the enormous range of premium fortified wines and naturally sweet dessert wines.
Czech producers are incorporating various methods to craft their sweet, or sladké, wines, and it is my most sincere hope that these wines make it outside of the country. I will break down each category of dessert wine, as each deserves its unique recognition.
Slamové wine- Slamové wine is also known as straw wine, and is a true specialty of the country. Although this style dates back to Roman and Greek times, it is still alive and strong here in the Czech Republic. Slamové wine is produced from healthy clusters of grapes that were harvested in the early fall. Those whole clusters are then carefully placed on straw mats to dry a minimum of three months. This period of time helps to desiccate the grapes, concentrating the sugar levels by allowing the water inside the grapes to evaporate. Each individual grape becomes raisined and very sweet, thus producing a truly magical nectar, one worthy of decades of bottle maturation. Both red grapes and white grape varieties may be used, and I have been lucky enough to try slamové wines produced from Frankovka, Welschriesling, and Pálava. Winemakers like Oldřich Drápal, Sonberk, and Petr Marcinčák are masters of the craft, producing gorgeous slamové wines that are unlike any other styles of dessert wine in the world.
Ledové Vino- Ice wine, as it is known outside of the Czech Republic, is a specialty in cool to cold growing climates, like Canada and Germany. Although this style of wine is not made every year, when the winter season accommodates it, ledové wines are an absolute delight.
Ice wine is made from healthy grapes that are left to hang on the vine well into the early winter months. The grapes eventually shrivel on the vine, accumulating higher levels of sugar as the season progresses. These grapes eventually freeze on the vine, resulting in extremely high sugar levels. Ice wine is often fashioned from a particular group of grapes, like Riesling and Welschriesling, that are capable of achieving elevated sugar levels, while simultaneously maintaining razor sharp acidity. The resulting wines often have residual sugar content well into the zones of 200-300 g/L, while exhibiting a firm backbone of nervy acidity. My most memorable bottle of Ledové wine was actually produced from Cabernet Sauvignon, and comes from Tanzberg Mikulov.
Fortified wine- Most often associated with the wines of port, sherry, and Madeira, fortified wine is a rather novel idea here in the Czech Republic. Producers like Jan Stávek and Špalek have pioneered their own fortified styles, using neutral grape spirits in the midst of primary fermentation to both halt fermentation by increasing (or fortifying) the wine’s alcohol content, while allowing for a slight hint of residual sugar to remain in the wine. After fortification, the wines are subsequently matured in oak barrel, where they gain spicy, toasted aromas and a rounded, balanced texture. Fortified wines here can be produced from both white and black grape varieties, thus resulting in an enviable array of stronger, sweeter styles of dessert wine, perfect for a platter of blue cheese and charcuterie.
Botrytis, selection of grapes - Botrytis wines are most often associated with the reputed wines of Sauternes and Tokaj. This noble rot is actually a fungus that appears in the vineyards under specific conditions : Consistent morning humidity, followed by afternoon sun and arid conditions. When affecting healthy grapes, noble rot, or botrytis, desiccates the grapes on the vine while simultaneously concentrating the sugar levels. Botrytis rot can certainly be an impetus to wine production when it affects unhealthy grapes, and thus must be carefully managed in the vineyards throughout the entire growing season.
Yet when botrytis affects healthy grapes, it is the ultimate reward to the producer, resulting in wines that have a divinely sweet, honeyed, marmalade-like flavor. After gentle pressing and careful vinification in the cellar, the resulting botrytis affected wines have succulent acidity, a lusciously round body, and lengthy acidity. These wines can easily be considered as some of the most premium styles of wines found in the Czech wine market, as the skill of the winemaker is truly put to the test. Some of my favorites include botrytis wines from producers Kamil Prokeš and Šlechtitelská Stanice Vinarská in Velké Pavlovice.
The Next Two Years
As an American from New York, I have never thought that I would move to the Czech Republic. Yet two years in, I can not imagine living elsewhere. I am honored to have the relationships with the wine community, and I plan on growing both personally and professionally over the next two years. I also intend on drinking more of the wines, exploring other wine regions, and sharing my stories here on my blog.
If you have comments or questions as to my life here in the Czech Republic, please ask. If you want to recommend more producers, please, do so!
I have never before felt so at home than in this tiny wine region in the middle of Europe, and I’m thrilled to have a platform to share my new Czech home with the world.