The Future of Czech Wine and Solutions For Change
This past Thursday night, after much anticipation, I settled in to watch the Czech Winery of the Year 2020 (Vinařství Roku) competition. I was unable to attend the event last year, due to traveling back to the US (yes..remember those free roaming days???) so I was immensely excited to have the opportunity to stream it live from home, via the Internet. Since moving here, I’ve had the awesome opportunity to visit with many of this year’s winery finalists, so for me, there was an added personal side to the event. I realize that the virtual day to day life can seem overwhelming and unrelenting, but at times, I must admit, it has its benefits.
As I relaxed on my couch, with a glass of Moravian wine in hand, I tried desperately to understand each and every word that was spoken. The announcement of winners, the whimsical video shorts they created, and their question and answer segments. It was a charming event, despite the fact that I could understand about 50% of the broadcast.
To be fair, I have only lived in Brno for a little over two years, and my understanding of the overall Czech language is slim at best. Yet after having spent months visiting wineries, speaking with winemakers and others in the wine trade, my Czech wine vocabulary has gotten pretty darn good, if I do say so myself.
Vilém Kraus. | Photo: DIARY / Archive : Břeclavský deník
Yet there was one particular segment of Winery of the Year that touched me, literally, bringing me to tears. Perhaps it was the accompanying music to the segment, or my affinity towards nostalgic photos, but this emotional segment is what brings me to writing this blog post today. The Vinařství Roku broadcast a segment on the late Prof. Ing. Vilém Kraus, the father of viticulture and winemaking in the Czech Republic.
Thanks to Dr. Kraus’s extensive research in grape breeding and viticultural practices throughout his academic life in the 20th century, he is revered by his peers, adored by winemakers, and respected by all who were lucky enough to study under his tutelage and instruction. He was the holder of the state award of the Medal of Merit for the state in the field of science and many winemakers consider him to be the most important Czech wine expert of the 20th century. From the 1960’s on, Dr. Kraus wrote numerous academic papers, was a professor at the Faculty of Horticulture in Lednice where his influence continues to play a vital role in Czech viticulture and winemaking as we know it today.
Step into the Centrum Excelence in Valtice, where many wine competitions are held, and you will find a photo and dedicated memorial space near the entrance.
Although I could spend the entire blog post on Dr. Kraus, I am not an expert on his life and his work. All I know is what I’ve read from my personal research. Having passed away in June 2013, Dr. Kraus lived a truly epic life- he survived the horrors of World War II and the rule under the Czech communist party. He also was witness to the subsequent Velvet Revolution in 1989, which helped to commercialize and advance the modern wine industry.
During the broadcasting of this tribute, I was moved by this emotional, cultural dedication to Moravian winemaking, to the forefathers who brought wine to the masses. I became emotional thinking of the sacrifices they made to advance science, vinification, viticulture, and modern-day winemaking, despite war and tyrannical government control. I was humbled by how wine has integrated itself into every aspect of South Moravian life.
Of particular importance, is how this passion has instilled itself into the heart of every Moravian, which will surely continue with generations to come. I have never before lived in a culture that revered wineries and grape growing like this one. From birth, it seems that winemaking is in the heart of all who are born here, and Moravian wine is in the blood, sweat, and tears of every village producer.
And whereas Dr. Kraus’s life and work continue to play its role in Moravian society today, there is another reason for my writing this blog post . Ask any foreigner living in Brno, and they will not be able to tell you who Dr. Kraus is, nor the many accomplishments he made in the field of viticulture and horticulture. This is the disconnect I want to bring to your attention- why the culture of Czech wine needs to be more inclusive.
This is something I want to share with you today, because it is important and it is not spoken about enough, outside of professional wine circles. My goal living here in Brno was to change that- to make this wine community an inclusive one, hence the name, Civil Wines. There is no greater joy for me than introducing someone to a new style of Moravian wine, to see the sparkle in their eye after trying their first sip of Pálava or Cabernet Moravia.
But to scale the Czech wine industry into the tourism and educational sectors, to open the doors to foreigners, takes more than just me and my enthusiastic passion and endless curiosity. It takes an entire overhaul of Czech wine marketing and branding, to grow an inclusive industry, catering to non-Czech speakers.
Why I Want To Share My Opinion
This blog post will be twofold-- For my first half, I want to contribute my opinion as to why these wines remain behind closed doors, and what I feel the industry can do to promote their wines abroad.
The second part of my post will include how important Czech wine, and in particular, Moravian wine, is to the lifeblood of this community- How it affects relationships, businesses, the economy, and daily life here in the region.
These elements are interrelated, and in my conclusion, I will explain why wine is the pillar of Moravian culture, albeit one that rarely is spoken about outside of the country.
As a disclaimer--I write this blog post to offer my personal thoughts and opinions. I have never been employed by a Czech wine business in the country, and have only worked as a freelancer. I hope to not offend any of my dear wine making friends or those working in the industry, as I recognize how difficult winemaking actually is! The day to day grind, the unexpected climatic disasters, and most notably, the pandemic, which has essentially halted all hospitality and tourism in the country.
But, what I do struggle with is to understand why I am one of the few writing about Czech wine in English, promoting the wines everyday. Why am I one of the only ones always making a fuss about these artisanal wines and their incredible quality, hosting virtual tastings to promote tourism in the region, and interviewing the winemakers behind the bottles.
And since I’m writing this here for the world to see, I want to make it clear that the majority of the work that I have done over the past two and a half years has been for free.
When I say that I have a lot to learn, it is true. I had never tried a Czech wine before moving here, despite the fact that I have always been quite an adventurous wine drinker. During the time that I was a wine buyer in Raleigh, North Carolina, between 2015-2018, there was a meager selection of Czech wines available in the southeast US market, and anything that was available, was expensive and was exclusively available in tiny allocations. There are reasons for this, and I will do my best to explain why.
Certainly, I am humbled to be a part of the wine community here, but to be quite honest, I forced my way in. There was no one guiding me, I guided myself. No one was calling me, inviting me to wineries or wine tastings. I invited myself. I attended dozens of wine tastings in Czech in restaurants and wine bars all over the city, shaking hands with every winemaker in the room, acknowledging them and sharing my opinions with them. I single handedly knocked down the walls that separated myself and other foreigners in South Moravia from the wine industry, and instead, brought them into everyone’s living room via my videos and blog posts.
I have to give respect where respect is due- Mladí Vinaři, Neznámi Vinaři, Svéhlaví, WineGeek.CZ, the Natural Wine Shop, and the Autentista Moravia Magna have gone to great lengths, many times without broad financial support, to host wine tastings and public events to introduce foreigners to Czech wines. They export wine, sometimes at their own expense. They have created mass marketing programs and collaborations, partnerships with wine bars and restaurants, to introduce foreigners to their wines. They have even branded tee shirts, stickers, calendars, and even face masks, to promote their groups.
And they have been successful. You can find many of these wines now trickling into foreign markets, and I have the utmost respect for these innovative and ambitious winemakers and wine professionals.
Of course, I realize I have a lot going against me. I’m a foreigner, an expat, and a female, a triple whammy. But saying that, I hope to inspire others, women and men, foreigners and Czechs, to continue learning about Czech wine, even after I leave the country.
How To Create An Inclusive Wine Community for Non-Czechs
Velké Pavlovice
If you are unaware that the Czechs make wine, you’re not alone. If you did not do the voluntary work and research I do almost everyday, how would you know, apart from a chance visit to a local vinotéka?
To be brief, vines have been planted here since the 9th century, and winemaking has been an important contributor to the overall economy, religion, and trade for centuries. Wine helped families gain economic independence, it was a major factor in village and agricultural growth, and, thanks to the spread of Christianity throughout the region, wine made its way into the hearts of every villager. Vineyards were established which delineated village borders and subregions, and brought together families that thrived off the land.
I do not mean this in any offensive way, but in my opinion, the Czech wine industry (in particular the Moravian wine industry) is quite an insular one, even to those who live in the country. Rarely are Moravian wines exported out of the country, many winemakers struggle to speak English (at times, to no fault of their own), and the wines are primarily consumed within the country, thus negating any opportunity, and thus any reason, to substantiate any change.
Why should winemakers worry about selling wine abroad, when they can sell everything within the country? Well, to that point, why have a marketing board if everything will be sold here anyway?
From my own personal experience, when I moved to Brno, I was completely unaware of how close Brno was to the wine regions, and how important it was to the culture. The Brno Tourist Information Center does not advertise for any wine tours or tastings, and there are really no tangible means for wine lovers to connect with the wineries, unless they seek them out themselves. Facebook groups exist, but are exclusively in Czech, while wine tastings are also offered, yet are always in Czech. The Brno Expat Centre does its best to promote wine events, tastings, and excursions, despite the fact that they are busy running an essential day to day resource for the expat community.
I get it. I live in the Czech Republic and I should acclimate myself to these situations by learning Czech. But for non-Czechs, who may not have the time to learn Czech perfectly, or who are not trained in wine, where wine for them is simply an enjoyable hobby or passing expenditure, this makes it extremely difficult, almost impossible, to understand how important wine is to Moravian culture.
And I think it is a shame… Things are evolving, but in order for the Czech wine industry to keep up with its competitor countries, change needs to happen faster.
Foreigners Are Kept Out Of The Loop
With over 18,000 hectares of vines planted in the country, us foreigners living in Brno are kept entirely out of the loop. Yet here we are, investing in homes, paying taxes, starting families, shopping in the city center, dining at restaurants, and planning weekend getaway trips. Essentially, spending our money in the country, yet never having direct access to the Moravian wine industry, one that is the heartbeat of the culture.
Why should we spend money on a weekend in Moravia when we can spend a weekend in Austria? After all, everything in Austria will be provided in English, we will get to attend a wine tasting in English, and we will have a chance to enjoy our well-earned vacation time. But why can’t that money be spent in the Moravian region, to support local winemakers and to learn about Moravian culture?
And with multiple tourist boards, both in Brno and country-wide, you would think that there would already be something in place for this, to encourage wine tourism (oenotourism) for foreigners. And if there is, please, let me know, because I have been struggling to find it. Sure, there are printed materials provided by the National Wine Salon that are useful and informative, but I can tell you, not many foreigners even know these materials exist. And even if they do pick them up, chances are, they are not going to be planning a trip, particularly when there is little physical assistance to guide them in English. Navigating the public bus and train routes is daunting, and organizing a day of wine tasting can be overwhelming for non-Czechs.
After two years of personal, dedicated research to the wine regions and Czech wine culture, I have yet to find a substantial, long term project or marketing board, solely created for foreigners and for the export of Czech wine. There are some private companies that offer excellent wine tours, but they are just that, private entities. And although Wine of Czech Republic is an incredible internet resource, and the Concours Mondiale de Bruxelles website offers extensive data, statistics, and information about the Czech Republic, it is not enough to drive this industry forward, to a more engaged, proactive approach for non-Czechs living in the country.
Solutions For Change
Dolní Kounice
South Moravia is the land of winemaking in the Czech Republic. Over 96% of the total production happens here, thirty minutes to one hour south of us who are living in Brno city. With kilometers of wine trails, hundreds of wine villages, UNESCO heritage sites protecting the landscape, and brand new tasting rooms like the Enoteka in Znojmo, it seems easy enough to learn about the wine culture.
Yet, people here are still out of the loop. So, what can happen to change it?
This all has to happen from the ground up. Firstly, the Brno Tourist Information Centre and City Hall need to prioritize the Czech wine industry. In my opinion, they are the ones responsible for promoting the Moravian wine regions as a tourist destination, not only during the summer months, but all year round. They should establish a dedicated agency who promotes these wine regions to foreigners, as a way to entice not only those who live here (foreigners and Czechs), but those who travel to the country on vacation or for short term work assignments.
An agency could offer English-led public lectures and seminars on Moravian wine and its history in Brno in public buildings. Bring in winemakers, give presentations, engage the audience with tastings and masterclasses. These events can even happen virtually during Covid times, and can be a way to capitalize on those who live in Brno, want to learn more about the region, and who enjoy living here.
Why ignore the fact that there are close to 30,000 foreigners who live in Brno, and who have a desire to learn about wine? Trust me, there are many out there, I can tell you first hand from my tremendous growth on social media. Many foreigners choose to live here, so why deny them access to learning about Czech wine culture when it is so ingrained in the overall, everyday life in South Moravia?
These lectures could go hand in hand with provisions for a dedicated transport service, funded by the city tourist and wine marketing boards, to create group trips to the wineries. An idea like a ‘Wine Tour Bus’ would attract thousands of guests, both living here in Brno, and those coming from abroad.
Let’s face it - Coronavirus will not last forever, and tourists will return, so why not create the incentive now, to have them visit the places that make South Moravia special-- the wine villages!
Weekend wine tours could be organized from the city center to the four major subregions, and can be led by a tour guide who is fluent in multiple languages, and is knowledgeable about the wine regions, while having some established relationship with the producers. This needs to happen by partnering with the Czech wine marketing board, as a way to stimulate the economy, create foreign interest, and to create engagement between everyday people and the wineries.
None of this should fall on the shoulders of one sole American wine blogger. It needs to happen in a holistic way, one that is pushed and driven in a proactive approach by the Czech wine marketing boards and city council. Additionally, and this is just food for thought, a Czech wine culture museum should be established in Brno, to encourage people to discover and learn the history and importance of Czech wine culture, by acknowledging and recognizing its everlasting, and continued, contribution to the economy and the culture of South Moravia.
Now, how to get those wines for export to North America? Easy- Those same marketing and tourist boards can hire a small team to work on cross promotion and brand marketing for the export markets. The Austrian Wine Board did it, and garnered tremendous success in the mid 2000’s in America. Austrian wine was everywhere, because they held a proactive approach to expanding in export markets. Austrian winemakers, their importers, and their distributors, were knocking down every wine shop and restaurant door. Persistence, dedication, and proactive sales trips have benefited both the wine and tourist industries.
Now, you may say, Austria makes much more wine than the Czech Republic, and that is a fair, valid point. But I must respond to that statement with two clear facts : During the 2010-2017 years, Slovenia and Croatia launched an extensive business and marketing company , Vinum USA, to target the North American markets. They coined the term ‘The Slo Cro Movement,’ introducing consumers to grapes like Plavac Mali and Malvasia. And they crushed it (no pun intended)- Wine buyers and sommeliers could barely keep the wines in stock, as demand continues to increase, even today, for these central European wines.
My second response to the statement of production quantity is this - There are wineries here that produce in volume-- Znovín Znojmo, Lahofer, Bzenec, Habánské Sklepy, Šlechtitelská Stanice Vinařská Velké Pavlovice, Bohemia Sekt, among others. Let those wineries open the door, push their sales managers to North American markets, and allow the smaller wineries, with less production, to follow suit. In fact, some of these wineries were once imported into the USA by Víno Z Czech, however that company is no longer in business.
Whereas importing the wine and marketing the region are two separate things, they actually go hand in hand. Importing the wine is not enough- there needs to be ample, nationwide, consistent marketing campaigns and direct product launches that navigate how people can enjoy the wine while learning about the region.
Here is your solution: The wine marketing boards AND Czech tourism agencies need to establish a consistent, reliable, proactive approach, in English, and send dedicated members of the wine marketing team to international wine fairs and wine shows, with booths representing the Czech Republic, armed with copious material in English and bottles of wines at hand. It would work- but it takes precision, determination, and the redirection of funds.
Furthermore, and this is from a personal standpoint, target the wineries who want to export, but may not have the financial means, nor the language capacity to speak English. Support those wineries who are pushing the envelope and are trying their best- Do not only support those who have a financial backing or export program already in place.
This point leads me back to my original statement, of how I feel that the Czech wine industry is an insular one. Since the majority of wines are consumed here, within the country, they may not feel a need to create these export channels. Exporting wine is expensive, and a logistical nightmare, but I feel that overall, it is worth it.
After all, wine leads to tourism. And tourism leads to sales in every aspect of the economy: in the hospitality sector, the travel sector, and the cultural sector.
Bring those wines into other markets, introduce the North American wine buyers to this remarkably historic and scenic part of the world, and you will see, tourists will follow. Show them videos of wine country- of Šatov, of Pálava, of Kurdějov. Explain how Czech wine is the next up and coming region, thanks to its abundance of available grape varieties, cool climate wine styles, and advanced viticultural practices. Wine fans much like myself, are constantly seeking an alternative to Tuscany or the Wachau. So, why not Moravia?
It takes more than one person to create this, not only from a financial standpoint, but from a cultural standpoint. Because the industry works exclusively for Czechs, foreigners rarely attend open wine cellars or other wine festivals, and instead travel outside of the Czech Republic. Certainly, I have done my part to change that, but it takes more than just me.
My most sincere hope for South Moravia is that someone out there will read this, and can empathize with my frustration. There is no excuse why these English-friendly options do not exist already, since the industry is missing out on 30,000 foreigners in Brno city, and over 200,000 foreigners in Prague, who are willing to spend their money to support the local economy--particularly after the tremendous impact from Covid-19. And that is only within the country.
Imagine how many Europeans would flock to South Moravia if they knew the hidden gem that I know.
Why Am I Passionate About Czech Wine
Now, to continue on with my two fold approach to this blog post, I must explain why I am so attracted to Czech, and in particular, Moravian wine culture.
I grew up on Long Island, NY, in a suburban community where housing developments were the cookie-cutter, family dream. I rode my bike, played sports, and I attended a high school with over 1,000 students. Typically, graduates of Long Island stay on Long Island, where we planned our futures by either attending a local university or community college, starting a family, or by learning a particular trade.
Many of my friends became police officers, teachers, firefighters, or followed a corporate or academic path in New York City or other major cities. And although wine is produced on Long Island now, when I was growing up, viticulture or winemaking was never a topic of discussion. My father drank the 2 liter jugs of Carlo Rossi red wine whereas my mother enjoyed a Sancerre from time to time, but that was the extent of my experience with wine.
I was not alone. Wine in the USA remains a taboo subject, after all, we had prohibition! As opposed to the majority of other countries around the globe, in America, you need to be 21 years old to even purchase a bottle, making it somewhat unattainable for those curious to learn about it. Give a child a sip of wine at a restaurant, and you’ll be fined! (Trust me, it almost happened to our family.. I was desperate to try a sip of my dad’s red wine at the local Italian restaurant when I was 6 or 7 years old…) Many consider wine a luxury item, only to be enjoyed at a fancy steakhouse, not something that is shared from a young age.
Here in South Moravia, it is an entirely different story. As I mentioned earlier, grapes have been grown in this part of the world since the 9th century, if not before. Viticulture spread with the Roman invasion of Europe, and vines were planted to support the local economy and the church. Wine played an important role in trade, religion, and, most importantly, the Moravian families' livelihoods. Therefore, it is these traditions that have impacted South Moravia, even today.
This is what continues to astound me- how important wine is to everyday life in the region.
Head on the bus to Dolní Dunajovice, or Němčičky, or Moravská Nová Ves. Take a peek around any village, and I can assure you, you will come across a traditional basket press on someone’s front lawn, grape cluster displays on the sidewalk, or a tractor in the driveway.
Stay in the village long enough, and you’ll be able to see older women dressed in traditional Moravian attire, bicycling to and from the local bakery, or local school children wearing their Moravian vests as they head to their accordion practices. Children drink burčák and young wine from the time they’re toddlers. It’s normal here, and it is a fully accepted practice.
For many Moravians, wine is not just an alcoholic beverage to be imbibed, it is the means to happiness, and in some cases, to survival. It is their main employment throughout the year-- a bad harvest can spell disaster for many a winemaker, since it is often their only source of income.
Throughout the year, winemakers collaborate, converge on projects, helping each other by offering assistance, tools, and expertise, so that not a single winemaker is left behind. University programs in Lednice and Brno offer viticulture and horticulture Masters and Doctorate programs, educating winemakers on not only best practices, but an in-depth understanding of grape growing and winemaking.
My friend, Mike Mazey, a winery consultant in Moravia, offers Wine English courses in Lednice, to train wine professionals and winemakers on how to use English terminology in their day to day life. He even took the initiative and published an award winning book, Wine Words, detailing important English wine terminology while interviewing incredibly important wine industry professionals with his Youtube Videos, to facilitate this type of engaged learning within the industry.
Other Czech organizations, some initiated by the late Dr. Kraus, have instilled this passionate desire to continue to produce and educate society about wine, not only because the consumers dictate the market need, but because wine is part of the Moravian soul.
In Conclusion, My Hopes for the Czech Wine Industry
This is why I love South Moravia. Wine is simply a part of the day. From breakfast to dinner, there is a wine for every occasion. Moravians realize that wine brings people together, in moments of joy, and in moments of solemn reflection.
So in conclusion, I do hope for a brighter, more inclusive wine industry in South Moravia. One that encourages exports, facilitates foreigners by creating means to enter into their wine communities, and one that creates educational programs to bolster the local wine industry.
Anything is possible. Look at me. I arrived in December 2018 not knowing the country made wine, and now, I have established myself as an authority on Czech wine.
I felt all of these emotions while watching the Winery of the Year tribute to Dr. Kraus. His influence was all-encompassing in expanding the reach of Czech wine to the world, and his accomplishments will never be forgotten. Nor shall the future of the Czech wine industry be ignored.
In my opinion, the future of Czech wine will not succeed without the help of the state and locally run tourism boards and agencies, and wine marketing boards. It will take a concerted effort, practical engagement, finances, and a passionate motivation to create a more inclusive Czech wine industry.
Because us foreigners want to have a chance to enjoy it too.