Red, Red Wine
The past twelve months in Brno have been quite an adventure. On both a personal and professional level, I have learned so much about the incredibly complex culture and longstanding traditions surrounding Moravian wine. I have been introduced to winemakers, cellar hands, and sommeliers whose innovation, expertise, and vision have surpassed my expectations, and reshaped my view of the region’s wine production.
Back in March 2019, I wrote a blog post entitled No Country For Red Wine. At that point in time, I had spent a few months wandering the city’s wine shops, attending a few wine tastings, and speaking with other expats in the community. Everyone had me convinced that the Czech Republic was devoid of red wine, and I quickly fell into the trap.
Now it is certainly true that grapes like Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Sauvignon Blanc thrive in this area, and can be quite expressive and elegant. The microclimate and terroir of South Moravia are ideal for the cultivation of these aromatic white grape varietals. Yet I was left wondering, is there high quality red wine in this country? I set out on a mission to find the gems, to explore the red wines of South Moravia.
After a year of searching, I have found those red wines I had been pining after for so long. In fact, I have found dozens. The red wines of South Moravia, despite their delicate texture and concentration, are actually quite complex, terroir driven and balanced. Although the grapes have an inherent tendency to produce wines with lighter tannins and higher acidity, they can have incredibly pronounced aromas and flavors, reminiscent to the lighter reds of Willamette Valley, Oregon and Alto Adige, Italy.
In the past year, I have sampled dozens of red wines from all over the region, and I can safely say that red wine does deserve more attention here in South Moravia. Winemakers are reinforcing meticulous vineyard and canopy management, thus concentrating on smaller yields, resulting in exceptionally concentrated grapes like Blaufränkisch, Saint Laurent, Pinot Noir and Merlot.
Since these wines are produced within the Czech borders, their attractive prices can be quite competitive to their foreign counterparts, allowing us, the consumer, to enjoy a taste of red wine, right here in South Moravia. Although the search for these gems can sometimes be tedious, you just have to know what you’re looking for, ask the right questions, and have a little guidance.
That’s where I come in.
Come join me in raising a glass to the red wines of South Moravia.
The VOC Modré Hory
A few months ago, when preparing for a Moravian wine class, I had a startling revelation. While researching the wines of Velké Pavlovice, I learned that there is actually one VOC (Vína Originální Certifikace), the VOC Modré Hory, that only permits red grape varietals. I was in shock. A VOC that only permits red grapes? In South Moravia? I had to know more…
The VOC, similar to an AOC in France or DOC in Spain, is an assembly of local winemakers, approved by the Ministry of Agriculture, who coordinate a kind of '“quality control” of the sub region’s wine production. The organization was founded with the intention to promote terroir-specific wines that are reflective of the area. Certain VOC considerations, including the soil compositions and permitted grapes, reflect the terroir specificity of the Modré Hory.
Although the VOC is a relatively new idea in Moravia, only being introduced to the country in the early 2000’s, it allows for a designation of quality to be awarded to winemakers who strictly adhere to the guidelines agreed upon by their fellow members and industry associates.
Upon learning that there was a VOC in South Moravia that exclusively permitted red grape cultivars, I was completely taken aback. The Modré Hory is actually the sunniest, warmest spot in Velké Pavlovice, and grapes like Frankovka (Blaüfrankisch), Svatovavřinecké (Saint Laurent) and Modrý Portugal (Blauer Portugieser) not only thrive in the region, but are the only permitted grapes to this particular VOC.
This is definitely a region to keep an eye on, and in my opinion, one that will quickly be gaining international recognition.
The Red Wines of South Moravia
Pinot Noir (Rulandské Modré)
Often referred to as “The Heartbreak Grape,” Pinot Noir is an extremely difficult, fickle varietal, both to cultivate and vinify. Because of the grape’s thin skin and inherent tendency to grow in tightly packed, pinecone shaped clusters, it can often be at risk of fungal infections, molds and mildews. Yet this grape is the King of Burgundy, producing some of the most highly sought after wines in the world.
Pinot Noir requires a relatively cool climate to allow for a slow maturation, permitting the entire cluster to ripen evenly on the vine. With a natural inclination to ripen early in the growing season, Pinot Noir does best in a stable, fairly dry environment, where it can develop adequate sugar and acidity levels. When produced with small yields in an excellent year, Pinot Noir can be graceful, intriguing, and age worthy, revealing layers of earth, wild mushrooms, and red fruit flavors.
Here in South Moravia, Pinot Noir, also known as Rulandské Modré, has taken well to the loess clay and limestone deposits that snake throughout the region’s bedrock. Furthermore, due to the region’s relatively cool climate, it can be carefully nurtured on the vine, maintaining its natural high acidity and low tannin levels.
Here are some helpful, typical characteristics when looking to purchase a Pinot Noir:
Pinot Noir Profile
Appearance : Light to medium ruby red color. Wine should appear pale, almost transparent, with a slightly darker core. Typically, Pinot Noir is filtered, thus leaving a clear appearance in the glass. However certain producers here oftentimes do not filter their wines, resulting in a slightly cloudy appearance. This unfiltered quality, when paired with extended skin maceration, may establish slightly richer tannins and medium body on the palate.
Nose : Primary flavors of red and black berry fruits, including raspberry, bing cherry, strawberry, cranberry. Flinty minerality, shitake mushrooms, freshly tilled earth.
Palate : Berry fruited notes, similar to its aroma profile, with additions of earthy minerality. Puckery, high acidity, low to medium tannins, dependent on level of filtration and oak maturation.
Food Pairings : Mushroom risotto, spinach and cheese quiche, country pâté, grilled salmon
South Moravian Pinot Noir
Blaufränkisch (Frankovka)
To be honest, I was not very familiar with this grape before moving to Brno. Back in Raleigh, North Carolina, I had tried a few Austrian examples, but beyond those sporadic bottles, my experience was limited. To be fair, Blaufränkisch is not widely distributed in the United States, but the ones that I had tried, left me wondering about others out there in the wine world.
Here in the Czech Republic, the grape goes by the name Frankovka. Yet in Austria, it is known as ‘Blaufränkisch,’ and in the United States, it is referred to as ‘Lemberger.’ Up until the mid 20th century, Frankovka was one of the most widely planted grapes in South Moravia, only to be usurped later in the century by Saint Laurent. Currently, it ranks as the second most widely planted red grape cultivar in South Moravia, representing 5.6% of total vineyard plantings.
In the VOC Modré Hory, it is one of the permitted grape varietals, and can produce concentrated, richly fruited, spiced wines with medium to high acidity. The wines produced from the Frankovka grape can have pronounced characteristics of black fruit, reminiscent of blackberry and black plums. When matured in older oak barrels, the wines can take on a slightly spiced note, developing softer, more integrated tannins.
This is a grape worth seeking out, particularly for the more robust, heartier style of red wine in South Moravia.
Frankovka Profile
Appearance : Richly concentrated, dark ruby color
Nose : Juicy black plums, blackberry, black cherry, all spice, crushed black pepper
Palate : Medium bodied with firm tannins that soften with age and oak maturation, moderate to high acidity. Typically more full bodied than other reds in Moravia.
Food Pairings : Grilled steak and root vegetables, Austrian Tafelspitz, Czech Svičková
South Moravian Frankovka
(Saint Laurent) Svatovavřinecké
I have always loved medium bodied, high acid wines. Give me a Gamay, and you’ll make me a happy lady. Similar to the wines of Beaujolais, Saint Laurent has many familiar, attractive qualities. Wines produced from the grape tend to offer a more concentrated, textured palate than your typical ‘light’ style of red wine, perfectly integrating juicy acidity and velvety tannins.
The driving flavor characteristics behind this style of wine are dark berries and earth, and when made under a watchful eye, can age for close to a decade. Typically, the best Saint Laurent wines are matured in older oak barrels, imparting structure, without the addition of spice, vanilla, or chewy oak tannins.
Despite its popularity in the vineyards, Saint Laurent has not always been a high quality wine in this region. For decades during Communism, Moravians used Saint Laurent to produce lackluster bulk wine. Consequently, as the vines were poorly maintained and overcropped, the wines became insipid, thin, and weedy. Yet today, things have changed. Whenever I pour a high quality Saint Laurent for the Czech community, they are always shocked at the development of flavors and aromas found in the wine. Currently, Saint Laurent is the most widely planted grape in the Czech Republic. Unfortunately, most of it still goes to bulk production.
Yet in Znojmo, things are different. I’ve found that the best Saint Laurent comes from this particular subregion, where the microclimate seems most suitable for the grape’s healthy cultivation. So, to the Saint Laurent lovers out there, I’m sharing with you my favorites below.
Saint Laurent Profile
Appearance : Ruby red, with the potential of slightly opaque features in the glass.
Nose : Morello cherry, macerated raspberries, graphite, cranberry
Palate : Light to medium bodied, fleshy red fruit notes, medium to medium - tannins, juicy acidity
Food pairings : Roast Goose with cabbage, Haloušky, Gratin Dauphinois, Classic Grilled Cheese
South Moravian Saint Laurent
Merlot
Although we may laugh about it now, in the 90’s, the film, Sideways, ruined the reputation of Merlot in the United States. It took just six simple words : “I’m not drinking any f***** Merlot” and BOOM, Merlot took the hit. Yet in Bordeaux, Napa, Italy and Chile, the grape continues to be a powerhouse, and I’m so glad that the tide has turned in its favor. Merlot is finally regaining the prestige it so desperately deserves.
In the New World, like California, Merlot can produce full bodied, fleshy, plump wines, with flavors of cocoa, black plum, fig, mint and herbs. In the Old World, like France, Merlot is produced in a medium bodied style with higher acidity and more vegetal notes. The grape can truly be a chameleon depending on the climate, soil and viticulture techniques of the region.
I was surprised to find it grown here, in Central Europe, as I had not imagined the grape to take well to the Moravian microclimate. Yet after tasting a few bottles, I knew that it absolutely belongs here. Merlot was initially authorized to the Czech National Grape Register in 2001, and since then, winemakers have been producing barrel aged, full bodied, Moravian versions of Merlot.
Producers impart advanced vineyard and vinification techniques, like green harvesting, extended skin maceration and French oak barrel maturation, allowing their wines to develop a more robust character.
To the naysayers out there who don’t believe there are full bodied wines in South Moravia, I dare you to try one of these bottles and tell me otherwise.
Merlot Profile
Appearance : Medium to full bodied, deep ruby red with hints of violet or inky purple.
Nose : Fleshy black plums, figs, cocoa, herbs, blackberries, cassis
Palate : Medium to full bodied, oftentimes velvety, supple tannins (depending on age/oak maturation), pronounced black fruit, moderate to high alcohol, medium acidity.
Food Pairings : Roast Lamb, Beef Brisket, Hearty Bean Dishes, Duck Ragout
South Moravian Merlot
The winemakers I have mentioned in this article are all top quality producers. Anything you pick up by them will be delicious, so don’t be afraid to try some of their other offerings.
The majority of these bottles were picked up at Vinotéka U Tří Knížat, Global Wines, and JustWINE. Thanks to shops like these in Brno, I am always adequately stocked up on interesting, small production wine.
The industry here is evolving before my very eyes, and I am thrilled to be a part of the adventure. Next time you are at your local wine bar or shop in Brno, ask to try a red wine from one of these Moravian producers.
I promise, you won’t be disappointed.