Moravia Makes Wine : Recap
A few weeks ago, I had an idea. I wanted to talk about Moravian wine, in a format that has never been done before. Inspired by the international social media wave of virtual wine tasting, I decided to launch ‘Moravia Makes Wine,’ an outlet for South Moravian winemakers to display their wines to the English speaking community, using Civil Wines as a platform.
As the resident English speaking sommelier here in Brno, I have strived to help bridge that gap between English speakers and the Moravian wine community. There are over 850 wineries in this region alone, each with their own personality, their own perspective towards winemaking, and their own wine style. And to be quite honest, I feel like this region is going to hit it big, and I’m thrilled to be in the midst of it all.
So if you’ve missed my Instagram live chats, don’t fear! Here’s a recap of who I’ve interviewed, what they’re crafting, recommendations for simple food pairings, and how to buy these wines in Brno, even during quarantine.
To sum up Kolby’s wines in one word : Texture. Founded in 2003 by Oldřich Drápal Sr., Kolby Vinařství is located in Pouzdřany, Mikulov, adjacent to the Kolby forests, where the winery takes its name.
Incidentally, as you may notice later in this blog post, Mr. Drápal Sr. is the father of Oldřich Drápal Jr., head winemaker at Vinařství Sonberk. The wine world here is small.
For close to twenty years, the winery has established itself as a leader of Moravian fine winemaking, incorporating regional varieties, sprinkled with a dose of terroir. With a sprawling 40 hectares under vine next to the Pouzdřanská Steppe, Kolby plants 9 white grape varieties and 3 red grape varieties, including some of the more classic white grape cultivars such as Veltlinské Zelené, Ryzlink Vlašský, and Ryzlink Rýnský.
Guided by their current winemaker Michal Kacetl and director Ondřej Stejskal, Kolby’s wines show an incredible salinity, length, balance, and firm mineral backbone, harnessing the essence of the limestone bedrock, hidden deep beneath the vineyards. Proper vineyard management and strict organic practices facilitate the crafting of these fabulous wines, allowing for a distinction between each individual varietal character.
Interested in ordering? Check out Kolby’s Website, their Prague Wine Bar, or head over to Vinoteka U Tři Knížat in Brno and stock up.
What I Tasted
Veltlinské Zelené 2018 - Grüner Veltliner is the leading white grape cultivar under vine in Mikulov, and Kolby Winery shows us why. Their Grüner Veltliner exhibits a classic nose of white pepper, balanced with bright citrus, lemon zest and quince. Refreshing minerality on the lengthy finish showcases the unique mesoclimate of Kolby’s vineyards, which are indubitably influenced by the expansive biodiversity of the Pouzdřanská Steppe. Check this wine out, and pair it up with some classic Wiener Schnitzel and pommes frites for your next Sunday lunch.
Ryzlink Vlašský 2018 - Ryzlink Vlašský, otherwise known as Welschriesling, is THE grape of South Moravia. And since arriving in Brno, I have tasted over one hundred examples (and no, I’m not exaggerating.) Kolby’s Welschriesling displays the signature aromas of apricot and lemon, yet is accented with a mineral driven palate of wet river stones and saline. The wine offers a bright, plump mid palate while the finish is lengthy, yet supple. This is the wine to pair with your feta cheese frittata, river trout, or sauteed mushrooms.
Ryzlink Rýnský 2018 : Riesling.. Beautiful Riesling. This is the grape that attracts all the attention, and with good reason. Kolby’s Riesling highlights the magical appeal of this noble grape, from its slightly floral, beeswaxy, fruity bouquet, to its inherent, racy acidity. Kolby partly matures their Riesling in large oak barrels, offering a slightly more complex palate, facilitating that acidity to integrate deeper into the texture of the wine. This Riesling is one of a kind, and one that can easily be matched with smoked salmon, couscous, or traditional weisswurst and kraut.
Vinařství Bukovský
I first met Antonín Bukovský at his wine bar, located around the corner from my house. At that time, I knew nothing about their winery, or even Moravian wine yet he greeted me with enthusiasm and friendliness, eager to talk about his family’s vineyards and his passion for wine and music.
Vinařství Bukovský offers classic, fruity wines at excellent prices. Their wines are clean, straightforward, and offer exceptional value. And I must admit, the convenience factor of having them around the corner certainly does help.
Antonín and his family farm over 20 hectares of vines in Kobylí, a small village located in Velké Pavlovice. They produce over 15 varied grape cultivars, with a fairly even split between white and red. As their vineyards are located in the Modré Hory (aka the Blue Mountains), where the climate is slightly warmer and sunnier, Vinařství Bukovsky does take advantage of planting more red grape varieties, like Frankovka, Blauburger, Dunaj, and various Cabernet crosses (Cabernet Vah and Cabernet Nitra, just to name a few.)
In addition to making delicious wine, Antonín is a talented violinist, often traveling throughout central Europe for festivals and concerts. The combination of wine and music is something that I think everyone can appreciate.
Interested in ordering? Keep up to date on their website, as their new e-shop should be launching soon!
What I Tasted
Ryzlink Rynsky 2017 - This dry Riesling from Vinařství Bukovský offers a simple, uncomplicated style of Riesling, with an ample palate of green apple, apricot, mandarine and nectarine, accented by a juicy, thirst quenching acidity. The wine has a pale lemon color and fragrant aromatics, with lingering minerality on the finish. This Riesling is the perfect picnic wine, and paired with a Brno sunset, I can think of nothing better than to greet the start of spring at Špilberk Castle, located just steps from the Vinotéka.
Frankovka Rosé 2018 - The Frankovka Rose offers a deeper, slightly richer style of rose. A fruit-driven palate explodes with red currant, red cherry and wild strawberries with a lovely, refined finish. The wine has a deeper, salmon-coral color, but please remember that this wine is SO wonderfully dry! This Frankovka rose is the wine to pair up with grilled vegetables or eggplant moussaka.
Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc Cuvée 2017: To be honest, I am more of a ‘dry white wine’ kinda gal, yet I can totally get behind a small dose of residual sugar, when done right! What do I mean? Any wine that has residual sugar needs acidity for balance, otherwise you end up with a cloyingly sweet, syrupy mess. Antonín recognizes this, and as a dry white wine lover himself, he makes sure to maintain a zesty, refreshing acidity in all of his wines. Their Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc offers a fragrant nose of peach, nectarine, pink grapefruit, and fresh summer melon, while the palate maintains a bright, citrusy acidity. A stunning accompaniment to a grilled chicken salad or charcuterie plate with olives, mild cheeses and smoked meats.
The Špalek family has been making wine in Nový Šaldorf for close to thirty years, and it shows. Year after year, the family harnesses the power of terroir in their vines, highlighting the distinct growing environment present on the Kraví Hora hillside plots of Znojmo. Attentive vineyard management for the Špalek family is vital, and their understanding and respect of the vine’s growing environment is evident in each bottle.
Guided by patriarch František Špalek, Marek Špalek and his brother Petr Ilgner farm twelve hectares of certified organic vines and are determined to fashion varietal wines that reflect the character of Znojmo and the personality of their family. Using a gravity fed winery, high quality machinery and three immense cellars located deep underground, the Špalek family produces approximately 80,000 bottles a year.
With over ten styles of wine to choose from, ranging from bone dry whites to lusciously sweet ice wine and fortified wines, there is something for everyone. For me, Špalek represents the unity that comes with family, nature, and tradition, and their wines are reflective of this bond.
Interested in ordering? Check out their website, or pick up their wines at Vinotéka U Tři Knížat or Moravská Banka Vín.
What I Tasted
Pinot Blanc Sur Lie 2016: Generally speaking, I am a huge fan of Pinot blanc. Although it is not the most aromatic grape by nature, there are subtle notes of almond, lemon curd, and pear that keep me coming back every time. So you can imagine my surprise when I tried Špalek’s Pinot Blanc from right here in South Moravia, and quickly found my new favorite.
This Pinot Blanc is so vastly different to others that I’ve tried in the region, as they use various vinification techniques that truly set them apart. The wine is matured in large 600L oak casks for close to one year, where it rests on fine lees, a technique often used for white wines to gain a broader, more complex texture. This ‘sur-lie’ (additional lees contact) intensifies the wine, enhancing the nutty, toasted aromas with a slightly creamy, spiced finish. Now all I have to do is find an Indian restaurant that serves creamy, butter chicken...
Ryzlink Rýnský 2018: As I had mentioned earlier, I am typically a dry white wine drinker, yet when balanced by a zesty backbone of acidity, particularly in Riesling, that sweetness becomes nuanced and delicate. Sitting at about 9 grams of residual sugar, Špalek’s Riesling does have a slight fruitiness and a plump mid palate, but, thankfully, there is plenty of acid to help balance it out on the finish.
A pronounced bouquet of ripe nectarines and apricots are accented by mandarine oranges, white flowers and honeyed peaches. This wine is refreshing and juicy, and should be your go-to wine for your next Pad Thai takeout.
Since the early 2000’s, Ilias Vinařství has produced classically styled, elegant wines in Pavlov, South Moravia. Pioneered by patriarch Georgios Ilias, and assisted with practically his entire family, they are paving the way to put Pavlov on the map.
Ilias Vinařství is a small family winery, utilizing strictly organic practices, concentrating their main attention to the vines in their vineyards. Farming just a few hectares of land and producing between 20,000-30,000 bottles a year, Ilias Vinařství’s primary focus is to produce dry wines that highlight the incredibly ancient limestone bedrock and macroclimate of the Pálava hills. As someone who has worked in the wine industry for over ten years, I appreciate the craftsmanship and passion that this family maintains for their wines, hand harvesting each cluster and hand labeling each bottle.
The Ilias family unit is a tight one, with each member contributing in some way to the winery’s overall success. Daughters Klára Iliasová and Barbora Cvanova are the owners of Klára-Bára Vínobar, a wildly successful wine bar located in Brno, where patrons can sip on Ilias wines and enjoy a welcoming, contemporary atmosphere. Check out Klára-Bára Vínobar and pick up Ilias wines at cellar prices, a simple way to bring Pavlov right into your living room. During the quarantine, they are open for limited hours, Monday-Friday, for window service only.
Interested in ordering? Check out their website, Klára-Bára Vínobar in Brno or Global Wines.
What I Tasted
Chardonnay Family Reserve 2018: When people think of South Moravia, they may not think of Chardonnay, and rightfully so, as the area is planted mainly with central European grapes. Yet Georgios Ilias realized that the soil found in Pavlov is ideal for a grape like Chardonnay, where it takes well to the calcareous limestone soils and continental, yet temperate climate.
Ilias Vinařství’s Chardonnay Family Reserve shows classic aromas of green pear, green apple, and almond marzipan, balanced with pleasant, yet firm acidity and a prolonged finish. Try and be patient with this one, as this is a wine that can certainly be cellared for the next 5-7 years. Yet if you are like me and are eager for a sip, pop one open and serve it alongside a creamy mushroom soup or chicken piccata.
Ryzlink Vlašský II 2018 : I want the world to taste this Welschriesling, and to recognize the power of Pavlov’s terroir. This particular Ryzlink Vlašský, labeled with the roman numerals II, is meant to distinguish it as the second picking, or later harvest, of their fruit. By allowing for this delayed picking, grapes are able to achieve a slightly higher phenolic ripeness, which can ultimately be crafted into a richer style (with a slightly higher alcohol content..but hey, who’s counting…)
Their Ryzlink Vlašský II offers a gorgeous, floral nose of cardamom, white pepper, lime, and fresh garden herbs, while the palate maintains that same linear, saline driven palate. This is an excellent example of Moravian Welschriesling, and one that I would pair up with a heavier white fish, like cod or swordfish steaks.
Nestled in Mikulov at the foot of the Slunečná Hill in Popice, Sonberk winery was founded in 2003, with the intention of producing high quality wines that highlight both the history of the Mikulov region and the tradition of South Moravian wine. Since the winery’s inception, winemaker Oldřich Drápal has consistently won awards and recognition both here and abroad for his extraordinary, and age worthy, wines.
With over 40 hectares of land under vine, Sonberk is a midsize winery, producing approximately 150,000 bottles a year. They specialize in both red and white grapes, with significant attention paid to their Riesling, Pálava, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot vines. But no matter what wine they produce, everything they touch turns to gold. And since having my first sip of Sonberk, I have been fan-girling ever since.
Interested in ordering? Check out their website or pick up their wines at Vinoteka U Tři Knížat.
What I Tasted
Sauvignon Blanc - Stříbrny Silver Line 2018 - I must confess, Sauvignon Blanc and I have never been the best of friends. Often, the wine can have insanely racy acidity, matched with pungent capsicum aromas of bell peppers or banana peppers, aromas that quickly make me head for the door. But Sonberk understands that these vegetal aromas of Sauvignon Blanc can be tamed, and have produced a gorgeous, attractive style of Sauvignon Blanc that instead shows perfumed aromas of yellow grapefruit, oregano, thyme, and juicy Meyer lemon. This is what sets their Sauvignon Blanc apart, making a wine that is accessible and exciting, offering a quality wine at an excellent price. Sonberk’s Sauvignon Blanc is the perfect porch wine, served simply alongside a good book.
Sémillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2016 - This is my kind of wine, geek-out wine if you will. A white Bordeaux varietal blend of 70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, this cuvée transports me to the gravel banks of the Gironde river. Produced right here in South Moravia, Sonberk’s blend highlights the finesse of expert winemaking. This blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc offers a well defined structure, slightly spicy nose, complimented by hints of coconut, vanilla and creamy almond marzipan. Yet this is not an oak bomb, by any means! Maintaining a palate full of ripe pear, yellow apple and quince, the wine has vibrant acidity and a lengthy finish. This is a wine that makes you stop, contemplate and reflect. Even better to enjoy it over a relaxed meal of wild rice, asparagus, and scallops in cream sauce.
Tramín 2016 - Gewürztraminer, a grape widely known throughout Alsace, Alto Adige, and Oregon, can be wildly fragrant, with signature aromas of lychee and rose petals. Yet Sonberk’s Gewürztraminer shows much more restraint, with only slight undertones of these rather powerful aromas. Their Tramín greets the nose with a bouquet of stone fruit, white pepper, pink grapefruit and citrus. Inviting and spicy, the palate strikes a fine balance between fruit and minerality. This Gewürztraminer is somewhat atypical of the variety, but in a good way, and I will certainly be picking one up again to go with my next order of Vietnamese spring rolls.
Riesling “Rudimentum” 2013 - This Riesling deserves a page in and of itself. Honestly, this is not like any other Riesling I’ve ever had in my life. And believe me, I’ve had my lion’s share of Riesling. Translated from Latin as ‘beginning’, Rudimentum was the brainchild of expert winemaker Oldřich Drápal.
In 2013, after a fairly cold, rainy vintage, Oldřich decided to harvest his Riesling, and ferment it in brand new, 500L medium toasted barrels. After the fermentation, the wine was transferred into two separate barrels, where it spent 30 months (!!) on fine lees. Other than the fermentation and transfer, there was nothing done to this wine, meaning no filtration, racking, or clarification. In 2015, after 30 months of patience inside their gravity fed cellar, Oldřich then blended the two barrels into one stainless steel tank, letting it mature slightly longer, and ultimately putting it in bottle.
The result? A maderized, oxidized Riesling that shows wild aromas of gingerbread, fig jam, sweet spice, baked caramel apples and roasted almonds (I could go on, but I’ll just stop there…) The palate maintains its integral ‘Riesling’ acidity, with flavors of quince and yellow apple, literally evolving with every sip. If I were to die of Coronavirus tomorrow, let’s just say that I’ll be going out drinking this wine. An absolutely divine treat, and one that is so atypical of Sonberk’s style, but one that us wine geeks truly appreciate.
Vinařství Václav is one of the wineries to keep an eye on. With key vineyard locations in Kurdějov and a state of the art, gravity fed winery in Hustopeče, Vinařství Václav is quickly gaining traction in the market. With their first vintage release in 2015, owner Tomáš Teplý, his wife Andrea, and winemaker Petr Vacenovský have teamed up with expert Australian wine consultant Mike Mazey and Marketing Director Petr Očenášek, forming a cohesive team, ready to push the envelope. Producing around 20,000 bottles a year, Václav shows a dynamic range of wine styles, from classic and refreshing whites and roses, to bold and substantial barrel aged whites and reds.
They believe in training each vine to produce only exceptional, small yields of fruit, and with this year’s 2019 crop, they were rewarded for their patience and diligence. Each wine we tasted shows inviting, fruity aromas, a well rounded structure, and well defined flavors. When this quarantine is over, I can’t wait to head to their tasting room and enjoy the sights of Hustopeče and wines of Vinařství Václav.
Interested in ordering? Check out their website or head to Moravská Banka Vín to stock up.
What I Tasted
Sauvignon Blanc 2019 - As mentioned earlier in the post, it takes a certain Sauvignon Blanc to have me coming back for more. Thankfully, Vinařství Václav harvested their Sauvignon Blanc grapes at full ripeness, over three separate pickings, allowing for aromas of peach, apricot, pink grapefruit and kiwi to make their way to the forefront.
The wine’s broader texture is certainly due to its blended components, as 3% of the wine actually sees oak maturation, incorporating a slightly richer, textured character on the palate. The wine has approximately 4 grams of residual sugar, enhancing that juicy, plump mid palate with a refreshing, zingy acidity. Bottled under screw cap to retain its inherent vibrant character, this is the wine to be served up at any summer barbecue.
Cuvee Kurdějov 2019-Saphira, Pálava, Riesling Cuvée: Have you ever heard of Saphira? I certainly had not before moving to Brno, and Vinařství Václav is one of the few wineries in the region that plant this rare, hybrid grape variety. Saphira is a grape cultivar, introduced by a genetic crossing in the 20th century, that offers delicately perfumed, floral aromas. When incorporated as a blending component in a cuvée, Saphira intensifies the bouquet, leading to a scented array of tropical fruit, lime, and wildflowers.
Vinařství Václav’s cuvée sits at about 6 grams of residual sugar, but with the additional components of Pálava and Riesling, the wine shows balance and structure, without being overly complicated. If you’re having a wedding, engagement party, or bridal shower, this is the wine you want to serve.
Rosé Cuvée : Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 : It’s spring, so you know what that means? Rose all day! Wild strawberries, red apple, red currant, and black currant fruit literally burst from the glass of this coral colored rosé. Vinařství Václav’s rosé cuvée is both fruity and welcoming, with a salivating acidity and plenty of black and red fruit characters, showcasing the best qualities that come from the Cabernet and Merlot grapes. The wine has about 12 grams of residual sugar, so it is considered a polosuché, or half-dry, yet maintains a refreshing and berry-driven finish. This is ideal pairing for a spinach and cheese quiche, or pork pâté on freshly baked olive focaccia.
