Holiday Wines : Moravia Edition
With the holidays quickly approaching, many Brno wine lovers have come to me asking for gift suggestions for their friends and families. Their main requests? Something typical of the region, relatively affordable, and absolutely delicious.
I’ve done my homework over the past year, tasting close to one thousand Moravian wines. It certainly is not an easy task to narrow down this list to a small set of samples, but I chose them based on the following criteria.
Each wine listed has a story, hailing from winemakers who understand the art of winemaking and find passion in their craft. These producers are dedicated and innovative, understanding that the best winemaking starts in the vineyards.
These wines have been listed in alphabetical order and represent only a fraction of those that I’ve tried over the past year.
I have not been paid or endorsed by these wineries to list their wines, they are only selections that come from my past experience and taste preferences.
So here you go, wine lovers! My holiday curated Moravian wine list that are affordable crowd pleasers that will wow your friends and family this Christmas season.
Bubbles
There is no better way to ring in the New Year than with sparkling wine. And here in Moravia, there are some excellent examples of bubbles, ones that express delicate fruit and stony minerality.
Pop one open this holiday season, and treat yourselves to a glass with friends and family.
Kamil Prokeš Vinařství Dominique Blanc de Noirs
Kamil Prokeš, the Czech National Sommelier and 3 time Sabrage Champion of the Czech Republic knows his way around bubbles. After all, since 2005, both he and his brother have been making sparkling wine under the Proqin label.
‘Dominique’ is solely Kamil’s project, and is a blanc de noirs, composed of 100% Pinot Noir. This sparkling wine is hand riddled and made in the traditional champagne method. Having matured on the lees for two years, the flavors are rich and complex. There are only 1,500 bottles produced each year, so scoop one up quickly! ‘Dominique’ is a must have this holiday season.. I know I’ve got mine saved for New Year’s Eve!
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Pale lemon/straw color, persistent perlage
Aromas : Slightly toasted brioche, citrus, stone fruit
Palate : Delicate, yet firm bubbles, crisp acidity, light citrus flavors, rounded palate, clean finish.
Food pairing : Grilled trout, baked brie, mushroom risotto
Tanzberg Mikulov Chardonnay Brut 2011
It is every wine lovers dream to find vintage sparkling wine at a non-Champagne price point. I found this gem while visiting Tanzberg winery this summer, and it is one of the finest examples of Blanc de Blancs, single varietal, vintage sparkling wine that I have tasted in South Moravia. Produced from 100% Chardonnay, this wine is kept 18 months on the lees. The grapes are sourced from three vineyard plots, known for their limestone rich soils. 2011 bubbles at a non-Champagne price? I’ll take it!
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Deep yellow, golden color, persistent perlage
Aromas : Tertiary flavors of shaved almonds, brioche, biscuit, honey and beeswax
Palate : Yellow apple, pear, bright acidity and long finish.
Food pairing: Soft, mild cheeses, mushroom quiche, oysters, or my favorite, popcorn!
White Wines
South Moravia is a region known particularly for their aromatic white wines. The cooler climate and limestone soils are perfectly suited for growing white grape varieties. Discover some of my favorite examples of Moravian white wines and pick one up at your local shop this holiday season.
Mikrosvín Mikulov Ryzlink Rýnský ‘Flowers Line’ 2016
Sometimes, all you want is a fruity, high acid Riesling to sip while catching up with friends and family at the dinner table. Mikrosvín’s wine is a prime example of why the Pálava area in Mikulov is famous for producing high quality white wines.
This wine is juicy and bright, yet developed and refined, perfect for any Riesling lover. Mikrosvín’s motto is “We make wine in the vineyard” a reflection of their meticulous approach to vineyard management.
Mikrosvín Mikulov has consistently won top prizes in both national and international competitions, and for me, their Riesling 2016 is a show stopper.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Medium to pale yellow
Aromas : Ripe summer peaches, apricots, mandarin orange and white flower
Palate : Juicy stone fruit, lemon curd, zesty acidity, medium finish.
Food pairing : Braised turkey thighs, pork rillettes, or grilled bratwursts and bramborák
Sonberk Vinařství Riesling V.O.C. 2015
This Riesling is why I love South Moravian white wine. Mineral driven, round, fruity and dry: all descriptors that I can get behind. Sonberk Winery has been making wine for close to twenty years in Popice, and is a prized winery with some of the top sites in the region. Their overall production focuses on mineral driven, textured wines that reflect the ancient limestone bedrock found beneath their vineyards.
Back in the spring, I attended a vertical Riesling tasting dating back to 2008, and I can safely assure you that their 2015 is my top favorite. But don’t just ask me, this vintage is also currently featured in the National Wine Salon in Valtice and has won awards from Decanter and Prague Wine.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Medium yellow with pale lemon reflections
Aromas : Unctuous, ripe apricot, honeysuckle, citrus and chalky minerality
Palate : Medium bodied, richly textured. Firm backbone of acidity, yet slightly creamy notes on finish
Food pairing: Roast pork with dumplings, swordfish, or smoked trout.
Špalek Vinařství Sauvignon Blanc V.O.C. 2016
From the first moment I tried Špalek’s Sauvignon Blanc, the flavors instantly reminded of wines from the Loire Valley. Yet Špalek Winery is found in Nový Šaldorf, just a ten minute drive from Znojmo’s city center.
Their biodynamic, family run estate farms their 12 hectares of vines near Kraví Hora, also known as Cow Hill. The Špalek family has been producing wine since the mid 1990’s, with a primary emphasis on reflecting the terroir of the region. This area is particularly suited for white wine varietals, but they also make a delicious red cuvée, Gryllus.
If you are a Sauvignon Blanc lover, get yours hands on Špalek’s VOC Sauvignon, it is truly remarkable.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Pale lemon with hints of green reflection
Aromas : Mineral driven and bright, with notes of hibiscus tea, white pepper and yellow grapefruit.
Palate : A weighty and ample mineral palate is backed by zesty acidity.
Food pairing : Goat cheese tarts with caramelized onion, mixed olives, garden salad with lemon vinaigrette, seafood pasta with creamy bechamel.
Tanzberg Mikulov Vinařství Ryzlink Vlašský Železná 2016
Ryzlink Vlašský, also known as Welschriesling, is one of the most important grapes in the Mikulov region. This grape has no relation to Rhine Riesling, and has a completely different DNA makeup and flavor profile.
Tanzberg Winery, who just celebrated their 20th anniversary, produces some excellent examples, planted throughout top vineyard sites in Mikulov. Their ‘Železná’ Welschriesling is sourced from grapes on their Železná plot, one that is highly regarded for its sloped limestone hills and increased sun exposure.
Try out the Tanzberg Hotel’s restaurant next time you’re in Mikulov and enjoy a traditional Jewish meal or upscale modern fare, both paired alongside their outstanding wines.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Medium yellow to pale straw color
Aromas : Notes of pineapple, mineral and biscuit tones
Palate : Richly textured, round, medium bodied palate. Soft acidity.
Food pairing : Roast chicken with thyme, Vegetable casserole, potato and sage gratin.
Traveniček and Kořínek Vinařství Veltlínské Zélené V.O.C. 2015
I have always been a fan of Grüner Veltliner, ever since I took my first sip ten years ago in Virginia. You can imagine my surprise when I realized that Veltlínské zelené, or Grüner Veltliner, grows particularly well in Znojmo, situated just over the border from Austria. Mr. Kořínek is the lead oenologist for the winery, and has been making wine for years. This Christmas season, instead of picking up an Austrian Grüner, go for this local Moravian gem from Znojmo and enjoy it with family and friends.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Medium yellow with green reflections
Aromas : Typical aromas of white pepper, quince, green apple
Palate : Savoury notes of smoked meat, juicy citrus fruits and linear acidity
Food pairing : Classic Viennese Schnitzel, mild, soft cow cheeses, cured country ham.
Vinařství Trpělka & Oulehla (Regina Coeli) Pálava Polosuché 2018
Regina Coeli takes its name from Rosa Coeli, the 12th century monastery/convent located in Dolní Kounice. Trpělka & Oulehla’s winery is located in Nové Branice, a small village that lies adjacent to Dolní Kounice. I recently visited, and was blown away by the history and beauty of the village. Founded in 1991, Trpělka & Oulehla currently farms 28 hectares of vines in the Znojmo subregion, with over a dozen varieties planted. Their winery produces typical Czech grape varieties, but their true gem is the Pálava polosuché.
Pálava is a grape that was created in the Czech Republic in the mid 20th century, and is a crossing of Gewürztraminer and Müller Thurgau. The grape has been heralded by many to be one of THE Moravian grape varieties, and rightfully so, as it grows particularly well in the region.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Medium yellow color
Aromas : Pronounced notes of apricot, beeswax, lychee and rose petals.
Palate : Lusciously plump fruit, backed by bright acidity and a long, slightly honeyed finish.
Food pairing : Hors d’oeuvres, stuffed mushrooms, spicy pad Thai, Peking duck.
Vinařství Václav Pálava Terroir 2017
From the first time tasting this Pálava from Vinařství Václav, I was hooked. The grapes for this Pálava are grown on the sloped hillsides of Stará Hora in Kurdějov, located just a half hour from Brno. Vaclav’s winery uses top notch equipment, high quality French oak barrels and gravity fed techniques to produce their wines. Despite being a young winery, only on their fourth vintage, their wines are strikingly mature. Unlike the previous Pálava from Regina Coeli, this one from Václav is dry and sees oak maturation. An excellent example of a young, dynamic winery looking to break through in the Moravian wine market.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Golden color, dandelion yellow rim
Aromas : Classic notes of lychee, rose, spiced vanilla and honeycomb
Palate : Viscous, medium bodied, balanced acidity. Dry, ample mid palate.
Food pairing: Stir fry pork with pickled radish, thai tofu curry.
Vinařství Volařik Gewürztraminer 2017 Výběr z Hroznů
Who doesn’t love a little sweetness in their Gewürztraminer? I know I do, and Volařik’s half dry (polosuché) Gewürztraminer is the perfect option for those who enjoy a touch of ripe stone fruit, honeydew melon and lychee tones in their glass. Crafted by lead oenologist, Eliška Becková, this is an excellent example of terroir-driven, juicy Gewürztraminer. The winery was founded by Miroslav Volařik in 2007, and today, has vines on over 80 hectares in Mikulov.
For this wine, the grapes were harvested later in the season, what’s known as special selection of grapes (Výběr z Hroznů) . By letting the grapes hang on the vine longer, they accumulate a higher sugar content and, under certain conditions, can be affected by botrytis, a noble rot that creates lusciously sweet, acidic wine. For me, this wine is like biting into a piece of fruit. Refreshing, juicy, floral and delicious, the way Gewürztraminer is supposed to be.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Medium yellow
Aromas : Dried apricots, honey, white flowers, citrus
Palate : Luscious and juicy, slightly sweet with firm acidity, long finish.
Food pairing : Spicy chicken curry, pad thai noodles, spiced chick peas.
Red Wines
During the holiday season, nothing is better than relaxing at home with a glass of red wine. And here in Moravia, producers are defying the odds, creating delicious red wines that represent their regions. Join me in raising a glass to these fabulous red wines!
Dva Duby ‘Ex Opere Operato II’ Saint Laurent 2017
After meeting Jiři Šebela, winemaker and owner of Dva Duby, located in Dolní Kounice, I knew that I was in for a treat. Jiři’s love of Saint Laurent is all encompassing, and his passion is evident in his wine.
The grapes are grown on 50 year old vines in Dolní Kounice, where a particular microclimate and granodiorite soil type are the ideal growing area for red grape varieties. Dva Duby hand crafts their small batch wines, so act fast and pick up this bottle before they run out.
Are you a collector? Don’t be afraid to store this bottle for the next few years. It only gets better with age.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Ruby, violet color, richly concentrated
Aromas : Mocha, red fruit, crushed black pepper
Palate : Concentrated, black plums, slight flinty, smoky notes on the finish. Fine tannins and soft acidity.
Food pairing : Duck confit, roast rabbit with cabbage, couscous salad with eggplant and mushrooms.
Vinařství Ladislav Musil Frankovka 2016
I was recently recommended this bottle by Vinotéka U Tři Knížat, as I was searching for a Frankovka that I had not yet tried in Brno. This wine hit all the high notes, as it was fully concentrated, elegant and age worthy. Frankovka, also known as Blaufränkisch, can be a tricky grape to grow, due to its oftentimes irregular, late ripening characteristics. Yet Ladislav Musil’s winery makes it look easy.
Having produced wine since 1992 in Dolní Kounice under their own label, they focus on concentrating the sugars in the grapes on the vine, eliminating any unnecessary chemical intervention. Additionally, this wine ages in old oak barrels, allowing for maximized, consistent maturation. A delicious Frankovka, showcasing both spiciness and refinement on the palate. Perfect for a cold winter night.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Concentrated inky purple/ plum color, hints of violet/ruby on the rim
Aromas : Pronounced spiciness, blackberry fruit, slight hints of vanilla
Palate : Round, medium to full bodied, firm tannins that soften upon decanting
Food pairings : Lamb roast, black bean and cheese enchiladas, traditional Czech goulash.
Vinařství Krásná Hora Pinot Noir 2017
Vinařství Krásná Hora translates to Beautiful Hill, and is a family run, biodynamic winery located in Starý Poddvorov. Producing just 40,000 bottles every year, their winery focuses on terroir expression, little to no oak influence, showcasing pure and simple fruit.
The patriarch, Marek Vybíral, is a Pinot Noir lover, something that is evident in the varietal expression in his wine.
This wine struck me as a crossing between Willamette Valley, Oregon and Pommard, Burgundy, as it toed the line between fruit-forward and earthy tones. To me, it represents the best of classic Pinot in Moravia.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : A pale, light ruby hue with cherry rim
Aromas : Raspberry, ripe strawberry, graphite, earth
Palate : Juicy yet developed flavors, fresh paved road, stony minerality, integrated acidity and light tannins.
Food pairing : Creamy, mild goat cheeses, lentil stew with root vegetables, grilled salmon.
J. Stávek Vinařství Frankovka VOC 2016
Jan Stávek knows his way around Frankovka. After all, he won Winery of the Year in 2017 and is heralded as the pioneer of the VOC Modré Hory, where Frankovka, aka Blaufränkisch, is the true star. Jan believes in making wines that are terroir specific, with his eye on traditional winemaking techniques.
Apart from teaching wine education at Mendel University, Jan is also one of the founding members of the Mladí Vinaří, the young winemaker’s association, based here in South Moravia. He believes in the power of community, and often hosts events at his vineyard.
This Frankovka has consistently been the top wine in my previous wine classes, and rightfully so, as it is absolutely perfect.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Highly concentrated dark plum color with slight violet reflections
Aromas : Black cherry, crushed mint, raspberry, spicy black pepper, allspice
Palate : Firm tannins, round palate, black plums, slight savory notes on the long finish.
Food pairing : Braised Lamb, Mushrooms tossed with thyme and sage, cauliflower gratin.
Kamil Prokeš Vinařství Rulandské Modré 2015
This Pinot Noir is unlike any other I have tried in the world. Instead of making any run of the mill, average Pinot Noir, Kamil decided to take an alternate path when producing this particular bottle.
Harvested in 2015 from his vineyards in Velké Nemčičké, the wine spends one year on the skins in barrel (!!) allowing for an extended maceration period. This prevents the wine from oxidizing but also eliminates the use for additional sulfites before botting.
The result? A richly tannic, robust style of Pinot that is unfiltered and powerful. This is a Pinot that you can pair up with those heartier dishes this winter.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Dark cherry, garnet color with brick reflections
Aromas : Stewed cranberry, macerated strawberries, pipe tobacco, cacao
Palate : Black plums, black cherry, blackberry fruit. Chewy tannins, bright acidity, long finish.
Food pairings : Cassoulet, hearty mushroom and cheese casserole, roast goose and dumplings.
Stapleton & Springer Haltýřky 2015
Stapleton and Springer’s Haltýřky 2015 is the closest thing to Beaune I’ve found in Moravia. This wine is handcrafted by Jaroslav Springer, a prominent winemaker in Bořetice, located in the Velké Pavlovice region. This particular area of South Moravia is known for its proliferation of red grape varieties, as the region enjoys warm, sunny days, perfect for longer ripening on the vine.
This is a delicate, refined Pinot and an excellent representation of the grape that is oftentimes considered ‘The King of Burgundy.’ Their Haltýřky is 100% unfiltered Pinot, which has been matured in older oak barrels. A classic style of Pinot that has quickly become one of my favorites here in Brno.
Fun fact : Craig Stapleton, one of the original founders and investors, was actually the U.S. Ambassador to the Czech Republic in the 1990’s!
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Light ruby hue with cherry red core
Aromas : Freshly picked strawberries, raspberries, cherry and mushroom
Palate : Earthy tones are met with red fruit, rose petals, a firm backbone of refreshing acidity, soft tannins, long finish.
Food pairings : Braised chicken thighs with mushroom, wild mushroom polenta, feta cheese and tomato bruschetta
Dessert Wines
A holiday gift list would not be complete without dessert wine. After all, we will soon be in the midst of the Christmas season, and a tasty, sweet nip at the end of a family meal is the perfect way to end a festive night.
I bet you didn’t think there was fortified wine here in the Czech Republic! I sure didn’t, until I tried J. Stávek’s Lokus. Jan is the leading pioneer of fortified wine in the Czech Republic, and this bottle is currently featured in the National Wine Salon.
This particular fortified wine, made using the traditional port method, incorporates Cabernet Moravia, Alibernet and St. Laurent grapes as the cuvée for the base wine. During fermentation, the wine is fortified with a distillate spirit, ultimately halting fermentation by raising the alcohol content and killing off the yeast. By maturing the fortified wine in used oak barrels, it preserves the acidity, and imparts spiced, nutty, vanilla notes.
This particular style of winemaking creates a dessert wine, with elevated alcohol levels, hovering around 16%. Enjoy a glass while listening to a crackling fire this holiday season.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Dark, inky purple with slight amber reflection.
Aromas : Pronounced notes of fig, mocha and raisin
Palate : Lusciously sweet, balanced acidity, notes of cacao, clove, dried figs and vanilla.
Food pairings : Ricotta panna cotta, salted cheesecake, chocolate covered almonds.
This late harvest Sauvignon Blanc is pure magic. The winery, Šlechtitelská Stanice Vinařská, established in 1901, is actually known as Velké Pavlovice’s original breeding station for hybrid and crossed grape varietals. Named after famed innovator, esteemed genealogist and grape cultivator, Ch. C. Andre, this particular line of wine pays homage to this pioneer of modern day viticulture.
Today, under the careful attention of winery manager Ing. Ondřej Konečný and Oenologist Libor Jestřáb, Šlechtitelská Stanice Vinařská in Velké Pavlovice focuses their production on producing high quality, unique wines, that represent their dedication to the vine. The winery also offers stunning guest room accommodations and an open air restaurant and terrace.
This particular dessert wine is from a selection of grapes, or as its known as in Czech, ‘Výběr z Bobulí.’ These Sauvignon Blanc grapes were carefully nurtured throughout the entire growing season, and were harvested quite late, allowing for the noble rot, botrytis, to play its role.
The result is a lusciously sweet and honeyed wine, that maintains a soft acidity and tropical fruit flavors. Perfect for a tasty night cap.
Tasting Notes
Appearance : Golden honey color, almost leaning towards persimmons
Aromas : Dried apricot, beeswax, slight flinty mineral, nectarine, butterscotch
Palate : Lusciously sweet, slight hints of mandarin orange, bananas
Food pairing : Lemon custard tart with vanilla ice cream, fruitcake, crepes with salted caramel
I am thrilled to be able to share some of my favorite wines here with the Brno community. Certainly, there are countless other producers that I admire, and wines that I drink on the regular. But in keeping with brevity, I could only include a small selection.
The majority of these wines were picked up at Vinotéka U Tří Knížat , Moravska Banka Vin and JustWINE, all located in Brno’s city center. I also recommend ordering from the wineries directly, and have listed their websites on each posting.
These selections are based on my opinion and experience, and of course, you may have a difference in taste or flavor profile. Nevertheless, I feel that these wines offer an excellent representation of the dedication of South Moravia’s hardworking winemakers.
Thanks to the wineries of South Moravia for keeping me hydrated and inspired this holiday season.