Five Things You Need to Know About Czech Wine

Dec 27

What do you know about Czech wine? Not a lot? Good, you’re in the right spot.

Although the Czech Republic has grown grapes and produced wine since the second century, very little international press and attention has been directed towards Czech winemaking and viticulture. At least, information that is readily available in English. It is only recently that the wave of Czech wine is hitting foreign markets, and I can certainly see a prosperous future for this thriving country.

In my opinion, the lack of press is unfortunate, particularly because the country is producing some of the most exciting, varietal driven wines that I have tasted in my previous years of working in the wine industry. These wines are captivating and fascinating, with racy acidity, appealing fruit characters, fine grained tannins, and vibrant salinity, revealing a kaleidoscope of colors and enticing flavors.

Yet there is an explanation as to why the Czech wine industry is shrouded in mystery. Due to the fact that the country consumes the large majority of the annual production each year, most of us non-Czech wine folks never get a chance to try them. Countries like England, Poland, Germany, Hong Kong, Singapore, and parts of the US and Canada are now, finally, importing Czech wine. But it has been a long, oftentimes difficult journey for these passionate producers looking to achieve global recognition.

To make matters worse, vineyard ownership is considerably fragmented, with some winemakers farming grapes on just one or two hectares. Land prices for vineyards in some of the most prestigious regions, like Pavlov and Valtice, have soared in recent years, making it unattainable to expand vineyard plantings. Furthermore, due to the rollercoaster ride of governmental regime changes, contentious land ownership, business privatization, and independent entrepreneurship, premium winemaking has only taken off since the turn of the century.

Massive investments in high tech equipment, temperature controlled tanks, and other vital winemaking tools are only beginning to leave a mark on the industry. You can read more about the country’s winegrowing history and traditions here, in my latest publication in EuropeNow Journal entitled ‘Bottle Revolution : The Emerging Importance of the Wine Industry in South Moravia.’

Beyond the historical importance of the Czech Republic’s wine industry, I’ve learned a tremendous amount since moving here to Brno, and I’m here to share five important things that you need to know about the wines of the Czech Republic.

Master these- and soon you’ll become a Czech wine expert!

1. Terroir

The Czech Republic is divided into two wine regions- Bohemia and Moravia. Although the former produces just 4% of the total production, some of the wines are absolute treasures. Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Noir, and Saint Laurent offer incredible value, and can easily compete with some of the more prestigious, old world wine countries. Spanning two major wine regions of Mělník and Litoměřice, Bohemia, known as Čechy in terms of Designation of Origin, is situated in the north of the country, and the Bohemian Highlands splits the country’s wine regions, Bohemia and Moravia, into two distinct parts.

Bohemia

Bohemia offers a landscape of undulating mountains at higher elevations, ranging from 500-800 meters above sea level, and the Labe (or Elbe in German) River that flows through the region. Known primarily for its tourism, beer production, hiking, and mountain biking, vineyards also dot the landscape. Thanks to its diverse soils of calcareous clay, sand, and gravel, and its admirable long growing season, the overall impact of this unique terroir directly influences the freshness and brightness of the wines being produced. In fact, the only Demeter Certified Biodynamic winery in the country is found in Bohemia - Vinné Sklepy Kutna Hora.

In terms of vineyard size, the two major regions span just over 650 hectares- Mělník covers approximately 350+ hectares whereas Litoměřice sits at approximately 290+hectares.

One of the most successful Bohemian chain brands to lead global markets is Bohemia Sekt, a sparkling wine mega-company based in Plzen, that sees an annual revenue topping 450 million CZK (17 million+ Euro). Although this company can be deemed ‘the Unicorn’ in terms of the overall Czech wine industry, one that is most typically composed of small family producers, Bohemia Sekt is present and available in every supermarket, convenience store, or gas station in the country. Although a far cry from the mom&pop brands that I personally cherish, it serves to offer a a substantial market force both here and abroad, helping to lead the financial and technological investments that have benefited the industry overall.

Moravia

Moravia, my new home, is a different story, and one that has driven the Czech Republic’s wine industry both here and abroad. The region of Moravia, or more specifically, South Moravia, produces 96% of the country’s total wine production while sprawling over 18,000 hectares. Moravia, known as Morava in terms of its Designation of Origin, includes four major subregions - Znojmo, Velké Pavlovice, Mikulov, and Slovácko, each with its own unique identity, geographical, and historic importance. I’ll cover these a bit later in the text.

Situated on the border of Slovakia and Austria, Moravia is home to over 300 wine growing villages, and has for centuries benefitted both commercially and financially from its enviable location along the Dyje river, navigating trade and commerce through decades of war and shifting governmental regimes. With over 60% of the total wine production focused on white wines, South Moravia has recently been upping their game, producing light bodied red wines that offer serious intrigue, thanks to their intense minerality, lower alcohol content, and backbone of zippy acidity.

The entire region is home to various UNESCO heritage sites, including the Pálava Protected Landscape, the prestigious villages of Lednice and Valtice, the Podyjí National Park, the Pouzdřanská Steppe, amongst others. These historical and cultural landmarks have not only increased tourism in the country, but have facilitated and protected the biodiversity of the vineyards, allowing rare or nearly extinct flora and fauna to continue to prosper. This biodiversity is what ultimately leads to the overall health and longevity of the vines and surrounding environment. After all, great wine starts in the vineyards, and thus by protecting these treasured natural landscapes, vineyards thrive with an abundance of healthy fruit, thus leading to exceptional wines.

Geographically, Moravia offers multiple benefits for premium viticulture, most notably its southern facing slopes and long growing seasons, Jurassic era limestone bedrock in the Pálava hills, sandy soils near Znojmo, and granite protrusions along Dolní Kounice. These varied soil types are no accident- they originate from an ancient sea that once separated South Moravia from northern Austria over twenty million years ago. Thanks to archaeological excavations over the course of recent centuries, botanists, viticulturists, and scientists are able to continue to advance grape growing potential in the region.

Climatically speaking, the Czech Republic has a marginal, continental climate, thanks to its landlocked position in central Europe. Positioned on the 49th parallel and bordering countries like Poland, Germany, Slovakia, and Austria, the Czech Republic benefits from a long growing season, typically with hot, dry summers, and cold, short winters. Although recent years have been in climatic flux (for example, last winter was mild, with little snow, while there were July afternoons barely topping 13 degrees Celsius), the environment is fairly dependable, as its inland location blocks any impactful weather events, like hurricanes, floods, or tropical storms. According to the grape breeding station in Velké Pavlovice, annual sunshine hours top off at around 2244 hours per year, making it the ideal environment for the country’s prized plantings of aromatic white grape varieties.

2. Subregions of South Moravia

As mentioned earlier, South Moravia can be divided into four major subregions, each entirely unique in terms of climatic advantages, popularity of plantings, and tradition. I’ll delve a bit into each one, but I highly recommend reading some of my previous articles that have examined each region’s importance. Additionally, the website, Wines of the Czech Republic, offers further statistics, photographs, and historical facts that are well worth looking into.

Znojmo - Situated on the southwest corner of South Moravia, bordering northern Austria, Znojmo offers picturesque views from atop the city center. Geographically speaking, the region is most noted for the Dyje River, (Thaya River in German), that curves and undulates through the village, leaving behind a fertile bedrock of rocky, sandy, and clay soils.

Znojmo is most noted for its production of white grape varieties, particularly Riesling, Grüner Veltliner (Veltlínské Zelené), and Sauvignon Blanc that span its 3,100+ hectares of vineyards. If you head to Znojmo, make sure to hit up the neighboring villages of Nový Šaldorf, Hnanice, and Vrbovec to try some of the most exciting, powerfully aromatic dry white wines. But if red wine is what you’re after, I recommend checking out Dolní Kounice, where Frankovka (Blaufränkisch) and Svatovavřinecké (Saint Laurent) exhibit spectacular, flinty minerality and vast cellaring potential.

Velké Pavlovice- This is the region where you find the largest production of red wines. Although the country is most famously known for its aromatic white grapes, I must remind the wine world that the Czechs make fabulous red wines too!

The largest subregion of South Moravia, Velké Pavlovice currently sits at over 4,700 hectares of vines, and is home to wine growing villages like Velké Němčice, Hustopeče, Vrbice, Kurdějov, Krumvíř, and Břeclav, amongst others, that specifically aim to craft premium red wines. The most notable red grape varieties planted in the region are Svatovavřinecké, Modry Portugal, and Frankovka, while other French grape varieties like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot are quickly gaining ground in terms of vineyard plantings. Late ripening white grape varieties like Riesling can also exhibit incredible potential.

If you’re planning a trip to the subregion, make sure to head to Velké Bilovice, a tiny village that boasts over 750 wineries!

Slovácko - Bordering Slovakia, Slovácko offers a completely different dynamic than the other wine growing subregions of South Moravia. The region’s landscape varies tremendously, from rugged, hilly terrain lined with coniferous trees and outcroppings of the Carpathian mountains, to lower elevation plains that line the Morava River.

At over 4,100+ hectares of vineyards, Slovácko is the second largest subregion of South Moravia, and is most regarded for its incredible wealth of heavy clay soils. These soils help to retain water, contributing to the overall health of the vine, particularly in years of limited rainfall. One of the larger wine growing villages is Uherské Hradiště, where Moravian Muscat, (Muškát moravský) a true Moravian creation, comes to life in all of its aromatic, perfumed goodness.

Mikulov - This is the region that is perhaps the most well known of South Moravia. Home to famed UNESCO sites including the Château Valtice, the former Liechtenstein castle, the Pouzdřanská Steppe, and the Pálava Designated Landscape, Mikulov offers something for everyone. For us wine lovers, it is the epicenter for an exceptional array of white grape varieties, most notably Welschriesling, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pálava.

Once the center of trade and commerce for Moravia, Mikulov now serves as the center for viticulture and wine education. Brno’s Mendel University has a viticultural school in Lednice, while the National Wine Salon is home to seminars, sommelier courses, and international wine competitions. For me, some of the most magical villages of Mikulov include Pavlov, Popice, Valtice, and Dolní Dunajovice.

3. History

Traditional Valachian, North Moravian folk costumes

I could spend an entire blog post about the dynamic history of grape growing in the Czech Republic. It is truly fascinating. But to be realistic, I want to focus on one important aspect.

The country is simultaneously an ‘old world’ wine region and a ‘new world’ wine region. Grapes have been grown and wine has been made in the Czech Republic since the second century, with most records dating back to the 11th century. Yet due to the turmoils of war, mainly led by famine, illness, religious persecution, and most recently, communism, the Czech Republic has had to do some major ‘bouncing back.’ It is only since the Velvet Revolution of 1989 that families received their land back from the communist state during the period of restitution, while subsequent EU entry in 2004 eventually led to vital financial investments into the wine sector.

The Czech Republic’s wine industry has grown tremendously over the past thirty years. Producers here are forward thinking entrepreneurs, who are no longer held back by the constraints of their political past. Today, temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, gravity fed wineries, and eye catching marketing campaigns have penetrated foreign markets, pushing an entirely new, thriving wine industry, mostly led by young winemakers who recognize the global advantage towards selling their wine abroad.

For more information on the history of the South Moravian wine industry, check out ‘Bottle Revolution.’

4. Labeling Classifications and Terminology

The Czech flag is prominently displayed on either the capsule or label of every Czech wine bottle.

This is where Czech wine can get complicated for us foreigners. Typically, there are two ways to label wines : with the Romanic system of a protected designation of origin (PDO) or with the Germanic system, which categorizes the sugar content of the grapes at harvest. The Czechs use both of these systems, and oftentimes, it can lead to utter confusion. But allow me to clarify.

In order to create a label designation based on sweetness level, the Czech Republic mirrors the German system, enlisting the calculated sugar levels of the grapes at the point of harvest to categorize the ‘harvest levels’ in each wine. This measurement is done in °NM (or Normalizovaný moštoměr.)

Therefore, these wines are labeled as a wine with predicate, (Prädikat in German), measuring the °NM at harvest. Therefore, ‘kabinett’ wines include grapes of the lowest sugar content, and are fairly light in alcohol, are high in acidity, and are intended for early consumption. Next, pozdní sběr (late harvest), designates riper grapes at harvest, leading to slightly richer styles, more pronounced fruit flavors, and oftentimes, higher alcohol content.

Yet much to the dismay of wine drinkers, late harvest does not necessarily mean semi-sweet, as it only refers to the sugar levels of grapes at harvest, not how much residual sugar is in the final wine. Therefore, it is often that a late harvest Alsatian Riesling will have higher residual sugar in the end wine than a late harvest Czech Riesling, as the delineations of sweetness levels vary from country to country.

Next up is Výběr z hroznů (selection of grapes), a notation that designates an even higher level of sugar content of the grapes at harvest, leading to riper, concentrated fruit flavors, and perhaps, longer cellaring potential. The categories continue, each denoting a particular level of sugar at harvest. This system of labeling facilitates the consumer’s understanding that the ‘later’ harvesting of grapes can have a significant boost in alcohol content and concentration in the end wines. Therefore, if you’re looking for a wine with more pronounced aromatics and perhaps a more structured, complex palate, I recommend checking out the later harvest wines, výběr z hroznů and beyond. Although once you pass the point of ‘výběr z hroznů’ or ‘selection of grapes,’ the wines do tend to retain higher residual sugar in the wines, a natural result of extremely high sugar levels at harvest. Yet don’t be fooled! Czech wine is known for its vibrant acidity, thanks to the cool growing climate, so even the sweetest of wines retain a fresh backbone of acidity.

In addition to this Germanic system, the Czech Republic has also established a VOC system, which further delineates the wine growing regions geographically, and limits the VOC certification to a specific range of grape varieties.

The VOC stands for Víno Originalní Certifikace, and acts as a Protected Designation of Origin, insuring authenticity in each wine and corresponding region. This Roman system is used throughout the world, and is most closely related to the AOC system in France, the DOC/DOCa in Spain, the DOC/DOCG in Italy, etc. Think about Bourgogne Rouge= Pinot Noir, Chablis= Chardonnay, or Rioja = Tempranillo.

These prestigious Designations of Origin have allowed us to reference the place first, instead of the grape first, when buying wine. It is essentially the same thing here in the Czech Republic, yet only one VOC (the VOC Pálava) includes just one grape variety in its repertoire - Welschriesling. The other VOC’s often see 3+ more grape varieties that are permitted in the VOC.

Another example can include the VOC Modré Hory, which permits only Svatovavřinecké, Frankovka, and Modry Portugal as grapes permitted in that particular VOC. Interestingly enough, this VOC, found in the subregion of Velké Pavlovice, is the only VOC in the Czech Republic that includes exclusively red grape varieties. (And they say that Czechs don’t make red wine…)

Whether these VOC systems will change over time is hard to say, yet the starting point of delineating areas based on geographical landmarks, elevations, or other unique terroir aspects, is a head start to facilitating global consumer understanding of the Czech wine regions.

The Czech Republic utilizes these VOC denominations as a way to protect the viticultural aspects in the vineyards as well as the vinification methods in the cellar. It also serves as an identifying tool for the consumer, knowing that if you are drinking a wine from a particular VOC, you are reassured of the quality, varietal character, and origin of the grapes, in addition to adhering to various winemaking practices, such as barrel maturation, lees ageing, etc.

South Moravia has over 13 VOC’s, yet the five that are most important are VOC Mikulov, VOC Pálava, VOC Znojmo, VOC Modré Hory, and VOC Blatnice. These were all created by the participating member wineries, resulting in fairly stringent guidelines and controls to ensure a quality product that indubitably reflects their individual VOC.

These labeling terms help consumers identify the viticultural aspects behind the harvesting of the wine and the geographical protection of origin of each wine. As I mentioned, the VOC’s and VOC guidelines seem to be evolving over time, but I find the value in having these terms, as consumers are constantly looking to stay informed on what they’re drinking and the ‘local’ touch of each wine.

5. Four Grape Varieties That Are On My Radar

Although the Czech Republic’s national grape registry includes over 50 registered grape varieties, there are a few that have really sparked my interest in the past two years. I highly recommend reading up on the Wine Of Czech Republic website to familiarize yourself with them all, however for the purposes of this article, I will only delve into a few, to give you a taste of what the country has to offer. Keep in mind, the country produces approximately 70% white wine to a 30% production of red wine, so only one red grape variety made the cut here. And while many wine lovers feel the red wine production is of inferior quality, I find the red wines to be expressive, flavorful, and nuanced.

Riesling - Favorably regarded throughout the world, Riesling has its own singular identity in the Czech Republic. Teetering the line between old world and new world, Czech Riesling takes on a character all its own, harnessing the saline driven minerality and bracing acidity of the old world, with honeyed, stone fruit and floral aromas typical of wines from the new world. Riesling is grown in both Bohemia and Moravia, but I find the best examples from Nový Šaldorf, Kurdějov, and Pavlov, with some of my favorite Riesling producers including Špalek Vinařství, Gurdau Vinařství, and Nepraš Vinařství.

Welschriesling - Known here as Riesling Vlašský, Welschriesling was first introduced to the Czech Republic in the 14th and 15th centuries. Because of its late ripening nature, I like to refer to it as a chameleon both in the vineyards and the cellar. I have been lucky enough to taste some remarkable Welschriesling dry sparkling Sekt wines from Vinařství Volařík and Proqin Vinařství, while also encountering some full bodied, rounded, concentrated dry Welschriesling from Gala Vinařství and Kamil Prokeš Vinařství. Yet what I admire most about Welschriesling is its susceptibility to Botrytis Cinerea, a fungus that can either offer tremendous benefits or devastating disadvantages. The fungus must be managed appropriately in the vineyards, but when harnessed in the correct fashion, the wines become honeyed, with notes of dried apricots, spice, and beeswax, while retaining a refreshing, mouth watering acidity.

**Welschriesling**, affected by Botrytis Cinerea, at Vinařství Plenér

Pálava- This was the first Czech wine that I tasted while visiting Brno in July 2018. The grape, developed right here in South Moravia in the mid 20th century, is a crossing of Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau. Like many other hybrid or crossed grapes that have been bred in the Czech Republic, Pálava was bred with the intention of fashioning a grape variety that could withstand unpredictable spring and fall frosts, drought, or other climatic events that are oftentimes devastating to grapes. Pálava is often found planted on flatter ground, as opposed to the slopes, allowing more space on the hillside slopes for fickle grapes like Riesling and Grüner Veltliner.

Pálava offers the full bodied, intensely powerful rose, lychee, and tropical fruit aromatics of Gewürztraminer, balanced with the invigorating acidity of Müller-Thurgau. The grape is itself purple in color at the time of harvest, leading to wines with a deeply golden hue and oftentimes, a hint of residual sugar.

Svatovavřinecké (Saint Laurent)- I love pouring this wine for the local Czech population- it is the wine that changes their opinion of Czech red wine. Over the past fifty years, Saint Laurent has maintained a terrible public persona- the wines produced often tasted sour, highly acidic, with little elegance or refinement. Yet, over time, thanks to appropriate vineyard management, Saint Laurent produces light bodied red wines with pronounced floral characters, fragrant berry fruits, and fine grained tannins.

**Saint Laurent Grapes** at Vinařství Dva Duby

One of the most notable regions for Saint Laurent is actually in Dolní Kounice, located in the Znojmo subregion, where the granite soils are unlike any other in the country. The Saint Laurent wines produced in this tiny village have extremely deep mineral character, flinty earthy touches on the finish, while exhibiting incredible ageing potential. Some of my favorite producers there include Vinařství Trpělka a Oulehla – Regina Coeli, Vinařství Ladislav Musil, and Dva Duby. I’ve also had some fantastic Saint Laurent from Vinné Sklepy Kutna Hora, located in Kutna Hora, in the Bohemian region of the Czech Republic. Their Saint Laurent is absolutely delicious, with graceful, delicate tannins, puckery acidity, and an abundance of red forest fruits.

Keep in mind, this is only a small sampling of what the Czech Republic’s wine industry has to offer. I highly encourage you to read up on my previous blog posts, which go into greater depth regarding particular wine regions, VOC’s, grapes, or producers. Also, you can gain a greater historical perspective of the Czech wine industry, in particular that of South Moravia, by reading my latest publication in Europe Now Journal entitled ‘Bottle Revolution.’

In a country that has reinvented itself by defending democracy, enhancing global trade, all while powering through years of tyrannical rule, Czech winemakers are now crafting some of the most exciting, adventurous wines that are finally making a global splash. Winemakers are no longer held back by the political or economic restraints of the past. And I, for one, am delighted to be witnessing each winery’s achievement living here in Brno. Want to know more? Stay tuned!

Arielle DeSoucey